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Frankfurt Airport, known locally as Flughafen Frankfurt am Main, is the largest airport in Germany and third largest in Europe. If you travel on Lufthansa, you're bound to have a stopover here.

Frankfurt is the financial centre of Germany and as boring as only a financial centre can be. But airport rental cars are available and the no-speed-limit autobahn will get you out of town at an unbelievable velocity.

It's a short dash to tour what I think is the most beautiful river in Europe and sample some Riesling wine from grapes grown in vineyards established by the Romans.

Follow the autobahn signs from the airport to Koblenz, about an hour at Mach 1. You'll cross the Rhine at that point, but keep going in the direction of Luxembourg. Set your navigation system, or buy a detailed road map of the Mosel-Eifel region at any gas station; you'll need one or the other.

You're heading to the town of Cochem on the Mosel.

The Mosel (or Moselle in English or French) is a river in France and Luxembourg that flows into Germany and joins the Rhine at Koblenz. It's 545 kilometres long but we're picking it up at about the half-way point.

Cochem's famous landmark is the 1,000-year-old castle. It was originally built in the 11th century, but was destroyed by French soldiers in 1869. The present castle was rebuilt later in the 19th century; it towers above the river, which is known around the world for its brilliant scenery and fantastic wine.

The roads along the bank of the Mosel are ideal and separate bike paths run parallel. Perfect villages and vineyards greet you at every turn of this steep-sloped, meandering river.

The Mosel carves its way through red slate upon which are castles, abbeys, Roman sites and stately homes. Vineyards and family-run

gasthofs (small hotels) are everywhere along this unspoiled riverbank. Drive in the direction of Trier.

Trier, founded by the Roman Emperor Augustus in 15 BC, is the oldest city in Germany. It has more important Roman remains than any other place in northern Europe.

Trier's Porta Nigra is the best preserved Roman city gate north of the Alps, and the huge Constantine Basilica was built as the throne hall of Roman Emperor Constantine. I spent hours in it reading the excellent illustrated history that connects this building with 2,000 years of German history.

Trier is certainly worth exploring, but I don't recommend staying in this city of about 100,000 residents.

Go back to the villages along the river. One nearby is Longuich, the site of a Roman villa that is still partially standing.

Local knowledge is everything, and I came to Longuich equipped with an introduction to a friend's family who have grown grapes and made sensational Riesling in this village for 203 years.

The vineyards of the Carl Schmitt-Wagner Winery were purchased by the family in 1804 from the administration of Napoleon Bonaparte. They had previously belonged to a Benedictine convent, but were sold by the French invader.

The Schmitt-Wagners knew that the clergy owned only the very finest vineyards so paid Napoleon a hefty price. Since then, the Schmitt-Wagners have continued the old-fashioned practices that have won it several important international awards.

The steep vineyards bordering the river have a 60-degree pitch. They seemed vertical, and I could barely stand there without sliding down the cliff. But proprietor Bruno Wagner-Schmitt, now well into his 70s, literally ran up and down the rows as he proudly pointed out nearly 6,000 ungrafted European vines that were planted by his family in 1896.

I spent the night in a village gasthof for the princely sum of €30 ($43 Canadian). The room was small and comfortable and as spotlessly clean and well prepared as any at a Four Seasons hotel. In the morning, I launched the rental car back on the autobahn and made a warp speed return to Frankfurt Flughaven.

Songs are written about romance on the Seine or castles on the Rhine. I prefer a chilled glass of Riesling on the Mosel.

You can find more information about Carl Schmitt-Wagner Winery at www.cswagner.com.