Biographies
- Katherine O'Neill
One of the highlights of my reporting stint in southern Afghanistan has been the conversations I've had with local women. One interview I'll never forget was with Shala and Rayalia, two pregnant women from rural Panjwai district. The story was about Afghanistan's high infant and maternal mortality rates.
For safety reasons, both arrived to the interview at a secret location in Kandahar city well before me. Neither wanted to be seen with a Westerner for fear that could upset insurgents. Both came wearing burkas.
If I had have been a male reporter, the interview would have never happened. In this part of the country, women aren't allowed to be in the same room with a male who isn't their husband or related to them. A male interpreter was allowed to be present only because he was known to the women and received permission from their husbands. Photographs could only be taken with their burkas pulled up slightly to show their clothes underneath, but not too far for fear their breasts could be shown.
During the interview, Shala, 32, and Rayalia, 41, lifted their full body veils over their heads to expose their faces, and were both extremely forthright about the challenges facing expecting mothers in a war-ravaged country. At times, they seemed relieved that someone was listening to them. The stress of being pregnant in such a dangerous place was definitely wearing on them.
As the interview was winding down, Shala asked me how it was possible that I, a married 33-year-old woman, didn't have any children. What ensued was a lively and giggle-filled conversation only women can have about everything from condoms to birth control pills to vasectomies. It was so frank that the male interpreter even blushed at times.
Rayalia and Shala asked lots of questions. Like most Afghan women, both are illiterate. They told me the extent of woman's sex education in this deeply religious and conservative area of the country is often what their mother tells them right before they marry. Shala, a mother of three, desperately wants to stop having more children. She has been too embarrassed to get advice from her own doctor.
Stress: It's every soldier's constant, and unwelcomed, companion. The stress of a dangerous job. The stress of being separated from family and friends for so long. It often gnaws away at soldiers. A sergeant recently told me he feels guilty about the stress he's caused his family back in Quebec. “My wife is scared of the telephone,” he said. “Every time it rings, she thinks it is bad news.”
At Kandahar Air Field (KAF), there are lots of “distractions” for soldiers, including movies, parties, stores, restaurants and even churches. However, the farther away you travel from KAF, distractions become fewer and further between. That's why it's not surprising how many pets, mainly dogs, you'll find at the various Canadian military outposts and forward operating bases scattered throughout Kandahar province. It's a morale-booster that barks.
Most of the dogs are either strays or were abandoned by Afghan owners, often as puppies. At Masum Ghar, there's Jimmy and Uno (as well as a litter of kittens). At Sperwan Ghar, you've got Shadow. He's left with dogsitters when the soldiers who look after him are out on patrols or operations. At Zangabad, there's Wiley. Almost a year old, the mutt only has the use of three legs. However, that doesn't stop him from going out on patrols and operations with the outpost's soldiers. He walks point and rarely barks. During rests, he walks the line, trying to get a pet from each soldier before the march starts up again. One soldier told me that during one particularly long and hot patrol, he wanted to drop out, but didn't because the “damn three-legged dog” was still wagging his tail and hopping along. Wiley eats rations like his owners. Although, he often gets the least favourite: Hungarian goulash.
At a ramp ceremony held Sunday night to bid farewell to Captain Jonathan Snyder, I ran into several soldiers I've met during my trip to Afghanistan. I couldn't help but think of them when Capt. Snyder's flag-draped casket finally disappeared into an awaiting Hercules that will make the long trip to Canada. The 26-year-old officer was accidentally killed during a night patrol on Saturday in the Zhari district, a dangerous rural area west of Kandahar, after he tumbled into an open well.
Night security patrols are common, and most of the soldiers I saw last night have been on countless such marches. At this time of year, soldiers generally like travelling by foot at night better because the temperature cools down considerably. They also have infra-red technology to help guide the way.
But by no means, is it easier or safer. They are weighed down by their weapon and gear often weighing more than 27 kilograms, all while trying to keep an eye out for the enemy.
I've been out on numerous night patrols with soldiers in both Zhari and Panjwai districts, and every time my biggest fear was that I would accidentally step on a homemade bomb or landmine. I never stopped staring at the ground. Neither did most of the soldiers I was with. It doesn't help that the terrain, which is already difficult to traverse by day, becomes a rural obstacle course of small waterways, farmers' fields and ditches.
If the moon isn't out, it almost feels like you are walking into a never-ending hole. Because electricity is a rare luxury in this part of Afghanistan, there are no street lights or illuminated homes to help light up the sky.
Pashmul is a collection of bombed out mud compounds and grape huts. So, that's why, even after last week's Operation Rolling Thunder, which saw bombs and artillery rain down on the rural area west of Kandahar for three days, it wasn't completely obvious Canadian and Afghan soldiers had even been there.
It's surprising that people even dwell in this dangerous place, which is a maze of winding pathways and farmers' fields, and a favoured hide-out for Taliban insurgents. Most residents are poor farmers; few can read or write.
When the soldiers walked out of Pashmul on Friday after the fighting had finally stopped for the week, several Afghans come out of hiding to greet them. Many handed out tiny gifts to the children, emptying their pockets to give away whatever they had on them, including candy, water and pens.
One little girl in a green dress (pictured above) stopped me, and pointed to my pen. “She wants to know what that is,” an Afghan interpreter explained to me.
She looked puzzled when I handed it to her, and the interpreter tried to tell her how to use it. As I left, I wondered what would happen to that pen. Would she find paper? Would she ever be able to use it at school, if one eventually re-opens in the battle-scarred area?
As the hot Afghanistan sun began to slowly drift behind the mountains at the Kandahar Air Field this evening, thousands of NATO-soldiers gathered to bid farewell to Captain Richard (Steve) Leary.
Capt. Leary, a 32-year-old Brantford, Ont. native, was killed by insurgents in an ambush southwest of Kandahar in the Panjwai district on Monday morning. A platoon commander with Second Battalion, Princess Patricia's Canadian Light Infantry, he is the 84th Canadian soldier to die in Afghanistan since Canada's mission in the war-ravaged country began six years ago.
Known as “Stevo” to his friends, it was the Shilo, Man.-based officer's first tour in Afghanistan.
Some members of Capt. Leary's bearer party who carried his flag-drapped casket into a waiting military transport vehicle openly cried, while others look tired and grief-stricken. The married soldier had been based at a tiny combat outpost deep in the volatile Panjwai district before his death.
Lieutenant-Colonel Dave Corbould, the battle group commander, said several members of Capt. Leary's platoon, who are still stationed at the outpost, plan to honour his memory later tonight.
People love their coffee at Kandahar Air Field. Despite the often insufferable heat, a cup of piping hot Joe seems to be the beverage of choice on the dry military base. There are at least three different coffee shops to choose from, including Tim Hortons and Green Beans Coffee Co., a U.S.-owned company that operates cafes on overseas military bases.
I prefer Green Beans and my patriotism has been called into question more than once, even by Americans, including Colonel Pete Petronzio, the highest ranking U.S. Marine based in Afghanistan.
"You are Canadian. Aren't you supposed to be drinking Tim Hortons?" Col. Petronzio said after spotting my Green Beans cup before giving an interview to a group of Canadian reporters yesterday.
The affable commanding officer, who isn't a coffee drinker, said Tim Hortons is a “mystery” to him, considering free coffee is available at the cafeterias scattered around the massive base.
“There are soldiers who will line up for 20 minutes and more to buy Tim Hortons coffee. If someone has that formula, I want them to give it to me,” he said with a chuckle.
It's already been three days since I've returned to Kandahar Air Field (KAF) after being out with the Canadian battle group all last week, but I'm still quite jumpy. All it takes is for a door to slam to fray my nerves.
I was the only journalist embedded with the military during Operation Rolling Thunder, a secret mission conducted last week by Afghan and Canadian soldiers in Pashmul. The objective was to disrupt Taliban activity, including bomb-making labs, and for three extremely hot and dusty days Canadian soldiers engaged in combat with insurgents. It was the heaviest fighting troops have been involved in so far this year, and not one Canadian soldier was injured.
On the first day of the operation, I was standing in a wheat field with two soldiers from 2PPCLI, C company, 7 Platoon and an Afghan interpreter when bullets first starting flying.
We immediately dropped to the ground and then scrambled to safety behind a mud compound.
On two day, we were standing in a wheat field again when we heard the distinct cracking sound of bullets being fired from AK-47s. Stray bullets starting whizzing by us, so we dropped to the ground again. This time, an Afghan interpreter and I were stuck there – nose to the ground -- for what seemed like an eternity while soldiers tried to figure out where the gun fire was coming from and pick a suitable place to take cover (there weren't many).
By day three, I knew the drill when a lengthy gun battle erupted. Luckily, I was in a lush grape field, where there was ample cover and shelter from the shrapnel being sprayed from the constant artillery fire by the Canadians.
Each day lasted about 12-14 hours. At night, the soldiers would return to nearby forward operating bases to eat, rest and share war stories. For many, it was the first time they had ever been to battle.
Despite the stifling heat, long marches and early mornings (one started at 1 a.m.), I rarely heard soldiers complaining. There wasn't even a lot of grousing on Wednesday night when news quickly spread throughout the small forward operating base that senior officers from the battle group were holding a private BBQ beside the mess hall while they ate rations.
Masum Ghar, a large Canadian forward operating base located southwest of Kandahar, is a rocket magnet. The base is built onto a hill surrounded by large, craggy brown mountains. One soldier told me it reminds him of a giant catcher's mitt. Fortunately, the rockets, which are launched by Taliban insurgents, rarely do much damage. However, one Afghan interpreter was killed last year on the base when a rocket hit a restroom where he was showering.
Here's a sign I found on the base earlier this week: “Welcome to FOB Masum Ghar…Proud to be rocket free for 2 days.”
Whenever I met a Canadian soldier, I'm almost always asked the same two questions.
The first being, do I receive danger pay?
The second, did I volunteer for this assignment?
I'm fascinated about why they are here. Despite the extraordinary personal sacrifice, some soldiers have voluntarily been deployed to Afghanistan more than once.
When I ask soldiers why they raised their hand to do a tour, I've heard lots of different answers. Some come for the adventure, others because they believe deeply in the international military mission and are proud to represent Canada.
For Warrant Officer Patty Forest, a Shilo, Man.-based soldier, it's all about his platoon.
This is his 18th year as a soldier, and the platoon section leader came mainly so that his experience and training could be used to make sure his 38 guys, mostly soldiers in their 20s, come home alive and in one piece.
He's a member of 2nd Battalion, Princess Patricia's Canadian Light Infantry, C-Company, 7 Platoon. Their tour ends this September.
“If I bring 38 guys home safely to their families, then I will have done my job,” he said.
Most of the forward operating bases (FOBs) have one large television, but people rarely watch it for any length of time. The problem is that only one channel is piped in, the Canadian Forces Radio and Television network. Someone at DND in Ottawa has put together the programming, mainly Canadian shows, as far as I can tell.