Some road trips are designed for the scenery, others for the vigour of the drive. Beautiful British Columbia offers a two-in-one – unrivaled viewing, matched by a range of driving experience: hairpin turns, steep climbs, snaking S-curves, open highways, graveled forestry roads. ... you name it.
In photos: Exploring the twists and turns through beautiful B.C.
In a trip arranged by Subaru Canada to demonstrate the sportiness of two lesser-known models, the BRZ and WRX, we follow a rough triangle north from Vancouver to a largely unknown jewel, Duffey Lake Road; move through mountain ranges to Kaslo in the south-central sector; return via the Okanagan Valley to (sip wine and) catch breathtaking Highway 3A/3. The route covers some 1,600 kilometres, taking us amazingly in and out of different climate zones while presenting jaw-dropping views of turquoise lakes, glacier-capped mountains, seemingly infinite green forest, sloping vineyards, infinite valleys.
While Subaru is reputed for performance of the Outback for such trips, largely male buyers with high disposable income in the 30-45 year old age group are discovering the WRX/STI and BRZ as reasonably priced models in the $30,000 range. Especially when equipped with standard transmission, the all-wheel drive, four-door WRX had ample opportunity to demonstrate gritty grip and fine control with electric power steering (WRX, 14.5:1 ratio) or better, with the hydraulic (STI, 13:1). With its performance-tuned front suspension, the car seemed to be taunting experienced drivers to test it vigorously through tight turns and quick gradient changes against the Subaru’s stigma as a make of safe, sturdy reliable machines.
Going by internal testing, Subaru claims the STI generates cornering roll rates near the Porsche Cayman, the WRX and BRZ close to the BMW M3. The rear-wheel drive, two-door BRZ put drivers low to the road – 19 cm below the WRX – to conjure the spirit of the old MGBs and Triumphs, with a similar feel to today’s MX5 from Mazda. It’s simply fun to drive, its handling fortified by Macpherson Strut front suspension and double wishbone rear suspension. If only it came in a convertible, to be fully open to the B.C. experience.
Zoom in to see the route and click on the markers to see photos from those locations.
Day 1
Richmond to Pemberton - 180 kilometres
As Whistler-bound skiers know too well, finding a clear path from the airport through Vancouver’s spider web of traffic is near-impossible. The frustration, though, can be mitigated with a guessing game. What will that broken-down bungalow go for, on the hyperventilating real-estate market? $1-million? $2-million? $3-million? Really? While snared in the downtown core, a young man wearing a tuque in summer weather walks from a sidewalk onto the street, stoops down to the driver of the BRZ and says, “Cool car”.
Escaping finally through Stanley Park to reach the Sea-to-Sky Highway, the sudden feeling of freedom is akin to coming up for air after staying underwater 10 seconds too long. Suddenly you’re rolling along an easily navigable road, gasping at Howe Sound’s unparalleled beauty, and starting to get a feel for the car through the gentle curves and banks of a road that was improved greatly prior to the 2010 Winter Games.
After Whistler, the road hints at what’s to come, with its twists and dips en route to Pemberton.
Day 2
Pemberton to Kaslo - 670 kilometres
We’re heading northeast to infamous Duffey Lake Road, zig-zagging through tight switchbacks while climbing gradually on a tree-bordered route, until the road opens up to grand vistas. The WRX hugs the asphalt as the rally-trained driver alongside pushes vigorously through the turns, the car responding as though wanting more. We stop at Duffey Lake to catch breath and take pictures of Mt. Rohr (elevation: 2,423 metres), an inspiration to hikers’ online threads.
Continuing northeast to Lillooet, the road tightens again, reminding experienced route planner Jud Buchanan of trips to Corsico. There are challenging bumpy sequences and opportunities to let the car roll on downhill stretches. From Lillooet, Highway 99 runs along the spectacular Fraser River and we detour to a small-pebble gravel road with no civilization in sight. The WRX especially shows a rally dimension you might not realize in driving the car on the White Rock to Vancouver commute, getting air over bumps and straightening easily following skids through turns.
After lunch in Vernon, the route on Highway 6 moves through Lumby, astride the Shuswap River and a pair of creeks that represent the easternmost spawning grounds of Chinook and Pacific Coho salmon. Then through the Monashee Pass (1,189 metres) to Cherryville, a gold mining town in the late 1800s, now home to some of British Columbia’s best country drives such as Mabel Lake Road. On gravel road and Highway 6, we discover delightful snaking turns on up-and-down gradients and near-empty roads before reaching a cable ferry at Lower Arrow Lake.
Truckers, motorcyclists, camper van tourists, no matter, you’re struck by the serene views from the ferry, looking north and south. From the landing, Highway 6 veers north along Upper Arrow Lake to Nakusp, once a hub during the Silvery Slocan mining boom. There we’re making a V-shaped turn southward to New Denver, and beginning to transition from the Monashee to the Kootenay Rockies.
The goal this day is at the end of the route – 31, translating to 47 kilometres of downhill twists, a chance to play with the cars, one matching the other as though hitched by a long rope, see how they respond to the banks and turns, before reaching the pretty, laid-back town of Kaslo on Kootenay Lake.
Day 3
Kaslo to Okanagan Falls - 340 kilometres
The first part of the trip back on 31 meant climbing the hill that left drivers giddy on descent. We stop for a young moose cantering in parallel on the road for a dozen strides before disappearing deftly into the bush.
The most fun part of the drive is from Needles to Cherryville, some 10 kilometres of road that curve like a python through a valley north of Granby Provincial Park. Rain spatters the streets but the BRZ notices neither the slick nor the curves, handling both easily. Columns of trees on both sides give you the feeling of driving in a videogame until the road opens toward Sandon.
From Kelowna, 97 straddles Lake Okanagan on the west side to Penticton, often climbing well above the water for stunning views of the vineyards covering the Naramata Bench on the lake’s east side. The wineries tempt detours – from Summerland, we climbed up to Dirty Laundry; from Okanagan Falls, another ascent to Blasted Church, and en route to Oliver, a detour off 97 to Stag’s Hollow and Noble Ridge. The road flattens to Oliver and Osoyoos at the U.S. border, running astride cherry orchards and vineyards.
Day 4
Penticton to Richmond - 425 kilometres
Between Okanagan Falls and Penticton, the 3A turnoff starts the journey back to Vancouver with a steep climb followed by rapid descent through the Marron Valley past serene Yellow Lake, which two fishermen have to themselves on a blissful, sunny Sunday. At Keremeos and its several kilometres of fruit stands, 3A joins 3 or the Crowsnest Highway, a road of steep ascents and descents marked by the Hope Slide, Sunday Summit and, from the town of Princeton, ultimately through E.C. Manning Provincial Park. Turnouts on this road afford view of the majesty of British Columbia, trees and valleys and peaks with nothing constructed by humans to interrupt the views.
Note: British Columbia is a popular tourist destination in summer and the roads are often treacherous, in winter. The shoulder seasons may be best to experience this unparalleled combination of road and scenery.
Editor's Note: An earlier digital version of the map on this article showed an incorrect route, from Kamloops to Kaslo and from Kaslo to Penticton. This digital version has been corrected.
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