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PULLMAN

3424 Avenue du Parc, Montreal. 514-288-7779. Dinner for two, with tax and tip, $50.

What could be cuter than a pair of mini-burgers nestled side by side, accompanied by mini angel-hair French fries? That little gem is the bison treat ($6) on Pullman's menu of about 30 appetizer-sized dishes. Named after George Pullman, who invented the luxury train car, this downtown Montreal wine bar has been a darling of the after-work crowd, cultured night owls and bon vivants since 2004.

Pourquoi? An elegant yet fun menu, 200 wines to choose from, gracious service and striking, railway-inspired decor. Featuring a gigantic wine-glass chandelier and wood and stone accents, Pullman seats 70 on three floors. The main-floor bar is made for after-work cocktails, while the mezzanine is perfect for your next hot date.

Thursday and Friday nights get very busy, with lineups outside the door. That's why Catherine Bélanger, who co-owns Pullman with designer Bruno Braën, describes the ambience as "somewhere between bar and restaurant."

Open until 1 a.m., the kitchen blends dignified gourmet tradition with sassy street accents. Try Rockefeller oysters ($14 for six), or green beans topped with almonds and truffle oil ($6). How about quail eggs served with caviar and vodka ($18), and grilled cheese made with port-flavoured cheddar ($7)?

Food is separated into two menu categories: salty (mains) and sweet (desserts). There's also a nice choice of Quebec cheese plates. It's like tapas with a twist, and a few dishes make a meal that's perfect for sharing. The menu is a checklist; you mark the box beside the items you'd like to order. Each offering is brought out as it's ready, and you spoon your portion onto your tiny china plate.

We started with a sweet endive and hazelnut salad, another great value at $6. Next, came two chunks of raw tuna ($7) marinated in salt, served with cucumber salad, and topped with dollops of white froth - which turned out to be shrimp foam.

Another delightful surprise was the vegetable brochette ($7): two delicate skewers of perfectly-grilled asparagus, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, and mini-zucchinis with zesty pepper sauce. More frothy stuff, this time whipped goat's cheese fondue for dipping purposes, arrived in its own shot glass.

When the mini-burgers came we all emitted that embarrassing "ahhh" sound generally reserved for babies and puppies. Fortunately, with Dijonnaise sauce, cheddar cheese and gherkins popping out willy nilly, the burgers lived up to their hype. My companion pronounced them "thick, juicy and cooked to about medium-well."

But Pullman's real draw is its ever-changing wine list, more than 200 varieties priced from about $19 to $330. Many selections are available by the glass (from $6 to $14) and by "trio" ($12 to $21), all poured at the table. There is also afine selection of whiskeys too, and a lychee martini that is particularly impressive - not too sweet

Sure, the not-so-picturesque view of the giant grocery chain across the street interrupts railroad fantasies, but as you bid goodnight to the portrait of Mr. Pullman at the doorway, you just might holler, "All aboard"

Joanne Kates will return

in September.