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Rarely are expectant mothers required to gussy up like Heidi Klum, who donned a blue and black J. Mendel gown for the Metropolitan Museum of Art's annual Costume Institute Gala on Monday night. While it may be unrealistic to declare the supermodel, due to give birth to her fourth child this fall, the poster woman for pregnancy chic, she clearly understands that a bump is no reason to sacrifice style.

With Mother's Day this weekend, there's no better time to scope the market for the latest in maternity looks, many of which put the belly front and centre, from body-hugging dresses to cult-label jeans. Much of the increase in selection has been driven by mothers themselves, some of whom have started up labels like Toronto's Go Go Mama and Hatch Maternity.

It also helps that many of this season's regular styles work for mothers-to-be, at least for the first few months. Leggings are plentiful, and so are the long, blousy tops that complete the eighties-inspired look. Maxi dresses, the hot staple of last summer, are back and lend themselves particularly well to expanding bellies.

But just sizing up doesn't always work, says Eva Salem, who owns Toronto's Belly Maternity boutique and is pregnant with her third child. “Pieces look so much better when they fit in the arm and shoulder,” she says.

Prices look better now too, as supply for the hip maternity market grows in response to demand.

“Moms are demanding a regular wardrobe made in maternity shapes,” says Nadine Silverthorne, editor of Sweetmama.ca, the sister site to lifestyle portal Sweetspot. “Anything a hip mom would wear, she's now managing to find.”

Think lively prints and electric colours, once considered too attention-getting. There are T-shirts with embellished necklines, swishy skirts and empire-waist or belly-skimming ruched dresses.

Maternity fashion may not initially seem recessionista-friendly, but Salem points out that women should think less about buying an entire wardrobe than building on what they already have.

“It doesn't necessarily have to be only about maternity fashion; it's important to stay true to your own style and not all of a sudden adopt preconceptions,” says Afiya Francisco, the model for our shoot and founder of the Style House (www.thestylehouse.ca), a blog that combines fashion culture with easy shopping ideas.

Thirty-one weeks into her pregnancy, she says her purchases so far have included a pair of maternity boot-cut jeans and a multipurpose wrap top. In other words, nothing too extravagant. She plans to buy a pair of pricier skinny Paige maternity jeans, justifying the $200-plus cost by figuring that she will also wear them for the first while after she has the baby.

Salem notes that women will buy designer maternity denim (J Brand, Paige, Rock and Republic) and wear it right out of the store. Her advice: “Make sure to pick denim that's soft and that will grow with you. Look for a panel that works for you and your body type.”

Francisco is also a believer in the Bella Band, a stretchy tube made by Ingrid & Isabel (www.ingridandisabel.com) that enables women to keep wearing pants that may become too tight. She says the company's seamless black leggings have become her “alternative to jogging pants.”

Even though comfort is a priority, Francisco has not shelved her high heels. Yet. “Day to day, I'll wear flats. But for evening, I'm still busting out the heels,” she says proudly. “I think there's something to be said for feeling good and looking good.”