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Sala Rosa

4848 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montreal, 514-844-4227. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip, $50.

If you could simmer authenticity in a paella pan, then dish it out with a Spanish spoon and garnish with a dash of indie-rock twang, you'd have Montreal's Sala Rosa.

Hidden in what looks like an old apartment building a few blocks above the strip of Boulevard Saint-Laurent known as the Main, this traditional Spanish restaurant (and upstairs concert venue) is housed in the building that used to be home to the Spanish Social Club. It's as warm as it gets: friendly and low-key with delicious, affordable food.

Over the past five years, restaurant owner Mauro Pezzente (bassist of local indie band Godspeed You! Black Emperor) has managed to preserve Sala's old-fashioned club charm while introducing a supportive, artsy energy that attracts neighbourhood hipsters and musicians without alienating the Spanish community veterans who have been frequenting the space for decades. He also co-owns the small Casa del Popolo bar across the street, and many staff members at both spots are musicians.

On the night of our visit, the indie kids are out in full force to attend a concert by Handsome Furs, a side project of Wolf Parade front man Dan Boeckner and his wife, Alexei Perry. Preshow, the band dines in the restaurant while their fans smoke cigarettes outside.

Inside, the decor is old-fashioned and simple: The open dining room is filled with basic wood chairs and tables, white tablecloths, red curtains, lanterns and ceiling fans. A medley of paintings line white plaster walls. Some are of flamenco dancers, a nod, perhaps, to the live flamenco show that takes place every Thursday. A small bar near the entrance to the dining room fills up as the night flies by.

The vibe may be one part rock star and two parts nostalgia, but the food itself is amazing. Hearty mains include fish of the day at market price; a seafood platter for $22.50 including salad and dessert; and the kitchen's famed paellas. From $14.50 for vegetarian to $21.50 for seafood, these dishes are made for two, but could easily satisfy three or more.

A steamy August night, however, calls for tapas. Warm salad with asparagus and mushrooms is a fantastic summer starter at $8.50. Served with fresh salad, the grilled asparagus stalks are tender-crisp, while the garlic mushrooms are not too greasy and salted just right. Chickpeas in tomato, onion and garlic sauce ($7.50) are superb, with hints of chili, cumin and ginger. Another highlight is the chorizo frito, medium-spicy Spanish sausage fried and cut into bite-sized chunks ($8.50). The verdict is mixed on the calamares a la plancha ($9.50), grilled squid that may be too garlicky for some.

Other tapas treats include a potato and onion omelette ($8), rapini with garlic and lemon ($7.50) and a plate of just those heavenly fried mushrooms ($7.50).

Drinks to wash it all down with are well-matched and cheap. A half-litre of sangria is $14, a bottle of dry white Spanish Bach just $24.

Sitting back, sipping and scoping out the scene, one might wonder what 80-year-old Spanish grandpas and their still-beaming brides have in common with young musicians in tight trousers. But it's not hard to figure out the answer: They are all looking for something real and they've found it here, where two worlds - one old, one new - share common ground and spicy plates.

Joanne Kates will return

in September.

Lucy Waverman will return

next week.