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averner@globeandmail.com

In an online discussion about quality versus quantity that my colleague Karen Von Hahn and I hosted last Wednesday, a reader questioned the appropriateness of brand name boasting. "My parents told me years ago - when I was young even - that the only 'names' that should be visible on the outside of your clothes are your own ...," wrote Chanel Turner.

While our immediate answers touched on new notions of "discreet luxury" and "stealth wealth" which exist in direct opposition to loud logos, I continued to think about how widely acceptable it is for men to wear their names, quite literally, on their sleeves.

Hence this week's topic: monogramming.

Who gets his initials stitched into his shirts? Most people would say a Mr. Big Bucks, corner-office-type who drives a fancy car and summers with his trophy wife and two perfect kids in Monaco. Perceptions like these are what give monogramming a bad rap.

In fact, the technique is slowly shedding its pretentious associations thanks to growing interest in made-to-measure men's wear as well as alternative approaches to the first name-middle name-last name formula.

"Our traditional clients are continuing to do it but now we're seeing a new wave of clients coming on board," says Ed Liston, merchandising manager, designer collections for Harry Rosen.

"There's definitely been a resurgence."

Mr. Liston admits that monogramming is "a money look" but plays down parallels to the fictional megalomaniac Gordon Gecko. "It's just another opportunity for men to individualize their wardrobes."

Damon Allan works with men throughout Southern Ontario as founder of Alexander Steel Image Consulting. He says roughly 90 per cent of his clients now get some form of monogramming on custom shirts. "In a business situation, it makes you look established," he explains.

And that's not all. "I think it helps the male ego in some way," he explains. "It's that extra reminder that this was made just for you."

Although there are no hard and fast rules, Mr. Allan says two key considerations are placement and colour. Convention dictates that monograms belong either on the left cuff (or whichever side the watch is worn) or below the breast pocket. Mr. Allan, however, recommends the right cuff because people see it first when they shake hands. Out of sight is another option, of course; he puts his own initials towards his back shoulder. "I'm always wearing a jacket so I'm the only one who knows it's there; it's not as branded that way," he says, adding that the bottom of the front shirttail is also popular among clients.

As for colour, men would be wise to lean towards subtlety, especially at a time when flash is increasingly frowned upon. Think white stitching on a white shirt as opposed to high-contrast black. This way, says Mr. Allan, "it doesn't come across as cocky or arrogant. It commands a much better response."

Harry Rosen does not charge for monogramming on custom-made shirts which cost upwards of $295 and are ready for pickup within three weeks (anything ordered from Italy requires five weeks and will be more expensive). Most retailers factor any monogramming costs into the price of the shirt so customers are not being charged per letter.

"It's an added service and this industry is all about service these days," says D'Arcy St. Pierre, general manager for Shirtfit, a Concord Ont.-based company that manufactures high-end shirts for men and women and supplies many local retailers with monogramming services.

One particularly interesting development comes courtesy of Indochino, a custom men's wear company which claims to offer "the world's first and longest clothing messaging system" dubbed "Suitable Phrases" monogramming. Up to 40 characters can be printed above a jacket's inside breast pocket.

"We wanted to do something different and compelling," says co-founder Kyle Vucko, formerly of Victoria, who is now based out of Shanghai where the garments are made according to socially conscious business practices. Suitable Phrases officially launched last week but customers who tried it during beta testing ordered both serious and jokey messages (one standout: "Here's to you, Matt Damon.").

The text is available in white, black or navy and choice of block or script font (Mr. Liston, by the way, is a fan of script). For a limited time, the service is free with the purchase of any suit (prices range between $300 and $500). "We're trying to make our clothing accessible," says Mr. Vucko. "With the 40 characters, people can have fun and it becomes more about personality than [showing] status."

Mr. Vucko has yet to decide how he wants to allocate his 40 characters, although he offers one thought, half jokingly: "Please return this to the good-looking guy." Not that he'd ever print this on the suit's outside.