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lwaverman@globeandmail.com

I was recently in Hawaii, U.S. President Barack Obama's home state and the former pineapple capital of the world. I say former because the entire pineapple industry has moved to cheaper labour markets such as Mexico and Honduras. In fact, very little is grown any more in Hawaii, where most of the produce and dairy is brought in from the mainland. The remote island of Lana'i was hardest hit because Dole had its largest plantations there.

Many of the residents of Lana'i have moved to the mainland and those who are left work mainly in its tourism sector, including the two magnificent golf courses and one of two Four Seasons resorts on the island: the Lodge at Koele and the Resort at Manele Bay. Between the two resorts is the little village of Lana'i City, where the sophisticated Lana'i City Grill sits amid little Mom and Pop restaurants serving old-style blue plate specials. Our favourite village eatery was Blue Ginger, which has been run by the same family since 1970 and offers up fantastic breakfasts, sandwiches served on squishy bread and the best cherry buns I have had in a long time. Here are a few recipes that I gleaned from my trip.

Tuna and avocado poke

The Terrace at Koele Lodge, an American's dream version of a British hunting lodge, serves this excellent riff on a tuna tartare appetizer that is also easy to make. If you cannot find wasabi tobiko, flying fish roe laced with wasabi, use regular tobiko mixed with a spoonful of wasabi or omit altogether. Ring moulds are often used in professional kitchens, but you can use a tall, round cookie cutter to shape the tuna, too.

Ingredients

12 ounces (375 grams) ahi tuna, diced into ¼-inch cubes

¼ cup finely diced Maui onion or other sweet onion

1 medium avocado, finely diced

1/3 cup chopped chives

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon wasabi tobiko

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Ahi poke sauce:

¼cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Method

Combine tuna, onion, avocado, chives, sesame oil and wasabi tobiko in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Combine soy sauce, sesame oil and lemon juice in a small bowl.

Divide tuna mixture into 4 portions. Place a ring mould in the centre of each plate and pack with a portion of tuna mixture. Remove the ring and drizzle sauce around tuna. Repeat with the 3 remaining portions of tuna. Serve with wasabi paste and pickled ginger on the side. Serves 4.

Shutome puttanesca With Artichoke Purée

Shutome is a billfish with a similar texture to swordfish; you can also substitute Pacific halibut. White anchovies in brine are available at specialty foods shops, but you can also omit them if you can't find them. The recipe is from the Ilihani restaurant at Manele Bay.

Ingredients

4 6-ounce (175-gram) pieces shutome or Pacific halibut

Grated rind of 2 lemons (reserve lemons for use in garnish)

½ cup olive oil

Artichoke purée:

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup chopped onion

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

2 tablespoons chopped prosciutto

¼ cup white wine

4 artichoke hearts, quartered (I buy the roasted Italian ones)

½ cup fish or chicken stock

1 tablespoon chopped basil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Puttanesca sauce:

½cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped

2 tablespoon chopped olives

2 teaspoons chopped anchovy fillets

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Garnish:

4 white anchovy fillets

Juice of grated lemons

Method

Marinate fish fillets 4 hours or overnight in grated lemon rind and olive oil.

Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat to make artichoke purée. Add onion, garlic, thyme and prosciutto and sauté for 2 minutes or until softened. Add wine and simmer for 2 minutes or until reduced by half. Add artichoke hearts and stock and simmer for 4 minutes longer or until reduced by half. Add basil for last 30 seconds of cooking.

Transfer artichoke mixture to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Sieve if desired and season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.

Combine ingredients for puttanesca sauce. Set aside. Preheat grill to high.

Season marinated fish with salt and pepper. Oil grill and grill for 3 minutes, flesh side down. Flip over and grill another 3 minutes or until just pink in centre.

Place artichoke purée in the centre of 4 plates. Place fish on top. Spoon sauce around plate and top fish with white anchovy fillets and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serves 4.

Macaroni and potato salad

This classic side accompanies many a Hawaiian blue plate special, which typically consists of a protein and this hearty, very simple salad. It is very high in fat and probably not good for you, but tastes like food you remember from childhood.

Ingredients

3 cups cooked macaroni

3 cups chopped boiled potatoes

2 cups mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Combine macaroni, cooked potatoes and mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper.