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Time was any old Pierre Cardin could design a clock radio. Sticking a famous name on stuff is a time-honoured method of making money. It used to be the fashion designers who worked outside their milieu; Yves Saint Laurent once peddled cigarettes under his fancy name.

But the current wave of celebrities launching their own fashion lines is unprecedented. And with the starry film-fest-pegged launch at the Holt Renfrew Bloor flagship last night of Twenty8Twelve, the fashion label by movie star Sienna Miller and her fashion designer sister Savannah, the boundaries between film and fashion commerce have been erased.

"It's the tabloids' fault," says Susie Sheffman, fashion director at Fashion magazine. "All media, really. We've been slavering over what celebrities wear. They launch 'it' bags, we vote on which celebrity wore which Prada dress better, we examine their Oscar gowns with microscopes. Of course they are going to get in on the game and make some money for themselves. Why endorse a brand, or pose for an ad, when you can own the company?"

The Miller sisters' launch was a circus-themed affair, a clever wink at the frenzy they are cashing in on. About 600 people mingled with a few choice stars to listen to the actress's groovy New York buddies the Misshapes spin tunes and drink snow-cone martinis. The party was styled after the collection, which is entitled "An Anthology of Rebellion." The designers toss about descriptors such as androgyny, eccentricity and Victorian London.

(These words are reflected in the collection as lots of black items, hook-and-eye closure topcoats and tails, skinny jeans, bib-front blouses and detachable priest collars. The pieces fall at the designer-bridge price point, from $95 for a T-shirt to about $700 for a brown leather bomber jacket.)

The Miller line, which is named for Sienna's birthday, differs from most of the celebrity threads out there in that Savannah is a fashion designer: She paid her dues working with British tailoring star Alexander McQueen and knitwear wonder Julien Macdonald. Sienna's role is creative director. The star assured readers of British Vogue that she meets with her sister each month to discuss the line, her time at such a premium that she is sometimes whisked from set by helicopter.

Usually, the consumer is left to wonder how much input a celebrity has on the product. Take Victoria Beckham, who admittedly would be a ninny not to put her name on something since she's one of the most photographed women in the world. Her qualifications? She "has loved denim since I can remember," as she told reporters at the launch of DVB, her jeans line. Her priorities, she went on to reveal, were to make sure the jeans sit flat, don't bag at the knee and don't "cut in around the stomach." (Gosh, Posh, don't you hate it when you've had a big mess of bangers and mash and your jeans cut in?)

Gwen Stefani is generally given more cred for her L.A.M.B. line, which has had a remarkable number of hits. The key, Sheffman says, is that the items look like stuff Stefani would wear. To wit, the beautifully cut wide navy sailor pants shown here, paired with a trim matching top, carefully thought out so that it tucks in neatly. (That is an important detail, as wide pants must be worn with a narrow top, and most blouses are not tapered. Trust a rock star to make sure things stay snug.)

L.A.M.B. hit the runways in New York this past week with a darling hit of schoolgirl plaid mini-kilts and shorts and sexy 1970s chevron sweaters. Stefani and her New York stylist collaborate on the line, and the star has oft-repeated that the pursuit is her ultimate retirement (from music at least) plan.

Singer/actress Jennifer Lopez has also added label head to her Wikipedia entry. But despite her half-billion-dollar perfume business, her junior clothing label, JLo, launched in 2001, has had a rough ride in stores and with critics. (Her other ventures include the higher-end Sweetface line and the just-launched JustSweet.) The JLo line does best with accessories, bags and shoes, which tend to the screaming metallic pump.

Another celebrity shoe line that errs on the side of lurid is Jessica Simpson's. See the teetering heels on our cover - an example of impractical glamour made to work no further than limo to nightclub booth. What Simpson, who also peddles her own lines of makeup and real hair extensions (which are genius) should have done was a collection of Daisy Duke shorts.

The men have suffered less scorn. Sean (Diddy) Combs is a bona-fide fashion magnate with his Sean John label, launched in 1998. Now diversified to eyewear and a bestselling cologne (Unforgivable), Sean John offers men's, women's and children's wear. Combs was named Menswear Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2004.

The list keeps getting longer. Later this month, Penelope Cruz launches her own line for Mango. It's another sister collaboration, as younger sib Monica joins the Almodovar darling in working up the 25-piece "capsule" collection. The pair already do a handbag line in Spain and co-own a fashion shop in Madrid.

The famous Cruz will, of course, be starring in the ad campaign. Clearly, the key to getting your own label these days is having a sister hot enough to sell it.

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Star wares

Twenty8Twelve: Sisters Sienna and Savannah Miller's line. It's a British rock chick, upmarket version of the Dickensian Portobello look.

Penelope and Monica Cruz for Mango: Another sister act, featuring silky babydoll minis and slinky sweater dresses.

Sean John: The Sean (Diddy) Combs men's, women's and children's wear lines are raking in millions and the fragrance of success has followed.

JLo and Sweetface: Jennifer Lopez, after a rough start, now keeps department store shoppers happy with flirty stuff for junior and grown-up moderate shoppers.

DVB: The Victoria Beckham lines of jeans and eyewear are going over big. You can be stick-legged and bug-eyed just like Posh

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