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GOLDFISH PACIFIC KITCHEN

1118 Mainland St., Vancouver

604-689-8318

http://www.goldfishkitchen.com

In its latest about-face, Yaletown has evolved from chic shopping district into hip wine and dine zone, but if Goldfish Pacific Kitchen is any indication, fashion has in no way left the neighbourhood.

The latest dining venture of restaurateur Bud Kanke (of Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House fame) is the trendy district's current place for stylish sorts to see and be seen. Just ask the actors, media types, real-estate developers and plethora of other shiny people whose toned derrieres are oft perched on the Missoni-print, Philippe Starck chairs in the lounge. No problem spotting them from the street, either, since glass walls run the length of the restaurant's front.

The 250-seat space (including two private dining rooms and large patio) was designed by Juli Hodgson, who has more than two dozen Aritzia clothing stores to her name. An impressive bar set against a marble slab that reminds one of a rolling wave grabs the eye first. Back-lit wall panels, stone tables, dark wood chairs upholstered in faux ostrich and a wall mural that turns classical Oriental motifs into perky pop art all provide eye candy for diners. The aesthetic is slick to be sure, but most customers are here for an experience that falls within both their budgets and their standards.

"There was a void in this neighbourhood for people who wanted to dine above Milestones or Cactus Club but not go to Bluewater or Cioppino's," says Nessa van Bergen, sommelier and beverage director for Goldfish.

The wine list, van Bergen says, is "extremely approachable," with 70 per cent of the bottles coming in under $100. While developing the cocktail menu she trawled the aisles of T&T Asian Supermarket. The result? Beverages flavoured with lemon grass, teas (such as oolong and hibiscus) as well as a lychee sparkling drink akin to bubble tea (its container is emblazoned with none other than Hello Kitty).

Alcoholic drinks with jellified lumps might sound scary, but it's all going down well with diners - just ask the ones who choose to drink here even while waiting for tables at other restaurants.

APPLE STAR MARTINI

with ANISE SYRUP

1 ounce demerara rum

4 ounces organic pressed apple juice

2 ounces star anise syrup

Blood orange wheel

Heat glass coffee cup with hot water. Rim with cardamom sugar (see below). Add star anise syrup (see below) and rum. Steam or boil apple juice, top up mixture in glass. Float blood orange wheel to garnish.

Star Anise syrup:

6 whole star anise pods

6 whole cloves

12 ounces simple syrup

Bring simple syrup to boil. Remove from heat and add star anise and cloves. Let cool and refrigerate overnight. Strain syrup and store in airtight container. Lasts three weeks.

Cardamom sugar:

3 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon cardamom

Mix together on small, dry plate.