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The town of Banff is almost always buzzing -- especially during March Break. That means that off-the-beaten-path activities and events can often be overshadowed in the mad rush to simply book a room or beat the crowds to the ski hill.

But since Jean Chrétien's government passed environmentally-minded legislation restricting slope-side accommodation, pubs, restaurants and the like in Banff National Park, there is a limited number of dining, accommodation and night-life options. When the town is packed, the inside track is a priceless commodity:

What's coming up

On March 11, Lake Louise's fifth annual Cardboard Box Downhill Derby (http://www.skilouise.com/events) highlights the fastest, most stylish cardboard box sleds on the hill. Sleds must be made only from cardboard, string, tape and glue. Helmets are mandatory, and goggles are recommended.

Or check out the Volcom Peanut Butter Jam (http://www.volcom.com). On March 25, organizers set up a bevy of terrain-park rails on Lake Louise and judges preside over a "wow-factor" tricks contest unrestrained by Olympic rules.

During the Heat Up the Rockies Festival from April 22-23 and 29-30 (403-762-4561; http://www.heatuptherockies.com), a food fair, live bands, beer garden, barbecues and a three-on-three hockey tournament take over the streets.

On May 22, the annual Slush Cup at Sunshine (403-762-6508; www.skibanff.com/events/slushcup.html) sees skiers in various stages of dress -- and undress -- attempt to skim a frigid makeshift pond on skis. For more than 30 years, Canada House Gallery (201 Bear St.; 403-762-3757; http://www.canadahouse.com) has been the place in town to buy Canadian art, especially Rocky Mountain landscapes. This year, the gallery will host exhibitions by Dieter Schlatter (March 25-26), Page Ough (April 15) and Nixi Barton (April 29).

Dates to avoid, in both Banff and on the slopes, unless you have an affection for lift lines: Alberta's Family Day weekend (Feb. 18-20) and Easter week.

Diversions

The eucalyptus-scented Willow Stream spa at Banff Springs Hotel (1-800-257-7544; http://www.fairmont.com/banffsprings) is perfect for healing any hillside wounds. Slump first in the steam room, then sit amongst the waterfall whirlpools, then try a "customized massage experience" such as the 60-minute Après Ski Performance ($169). Or, try a body treatment and facial ($59 to $289) before finally dropping into the outdoor hot tub to gaze at the stars and surrounding peaks.

Dogsledding on Spray Lake is offered by Canmore-based Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours (1-888-311-6874). Rates begin at $110 a person for a two-hour session, three people to a sled.

For $99 (bus ride and lift ticket), you can take on the chutes at Canada's newest ski resort, Kicking Horse in Golden, B.C. (http://www.kickinghorseresort.com), or travel by chopper to backcountry powder (http://www.rkheliski.com).

Where to stay

Faux-medieval in style with a galaxy of passages, hideaway lounges and restaurants, the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel (405 Spray Ave.; 403-762-5755; fairmont.com) is Banff's most luxurious and property. Rates start at $289 with breakfast.

The Spruce Grove Inn (555 Banff Ave.; 403-762-3301; banffvoyagerinn.com) is within walking distance of downtown, and offers an outdoor pool, heated garage and comfortable rooms starting at $72. There are also a few lofts perfect for families.

Perched above the town site, The Rimrock Resort Hotel (Mountain Avenue; 403-762-3356; http://www.rimrockresort.com) is a noted luxury hotel with spectacular views of Mount Rundle and the Bow Valley. Rooms start at $265.

Where to eat

Hey, this is Alberta. The usual suspects (Keg, Tony Ro ma's, Ear l's) serve up steaks, but few broil it more delectably than Saltlik (221 Bear St.; 403-762-2467) or newcomer, Fuze Finer Dining (110 Banff Ave.; 403-760-0853).

Authentic Italian is served in the octagonal-shaped Castello Ristorante (403-762-6860) dining room in the Banff Springs Hotel.

The lively yet cozy Elk & Oarsman downtown (119 Banff Ave.; 403-762-4616) offers a real fireplace, LCD televisions for sports fans, local microbrews, and a steak sandwich with fries and Caesar salad for less than $12.

After dark

Former World Cup skier Felix Belczyk owns both the Hoodoo Lounge (137 Banff Ave.; 403-760-8636; hoodoo.com) for the younger set and Aurora Nightclub (110 Banff Ave.; 403-760-5300). The Banff Centre (107 Tunnel Mountain Dr.; 403-762-6100; banffcentre.ca) hosts various artists on Friday nights as part of the Concert Night Out series, and as a guest of the Playbill Series, Newfoundland troubadour Ron Hynes entertains April 23 on Heat Up the Rockies weekend.

Take a line-dancing lesson at Wild Bill's Legendary Saloon (201 Banff Ave.; 403-762-0333) on Wednesdays, or mix with the Brits over a pint and soccer on the big screen at the Pump & Tap Tavern (215 Banff Ave.; 403-760-6610) or James's Gate Olde Irish Pub (205 Wolf St.; 403-762-9355).

Tom Maloney has been visiting and writing about Banff for more than 20 years