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Austin's musical heritage of folk, jazz, blues, country and rock hits you the moment you land at Austin-Bergstrom International Airport: Local bands regularly perform live in the terminal - the opening act for a city whose downtown is lined with bars, roadhouses and lounges offering live shows nearly every night.

The city's musicians contribute to the hippie vibe that sets this state capital apart from the rest of Texas - a popular slogan is "Keep Austin Weird" - and the home of Willie Nelson also hosts two of the best music festivals around: South by Southwest (March 12-16) and Austin City Limits (Sept. 26-28).

Austin City Limits, held outdoors in Zilker Park, is geared toward families as much as industry folk. Last year, some 250,000 fans endured the September heat - drink-lots-of-water, try-not-to-faint heat - to see and hear a lineup that included Bob Dylan, Björk, Arcade Fire, the Killers, M.I.A., Spoon, Wilco, Queens of the Stone Age, Muse and 130 other acts.

The edgier South by Southwest (SXSW) festival, which began in 1987, draws some 11,000 music industry players for a week-long blur of networking, panels, shows, and indie-rock adulation. Last year's festival featured 1,500 acts from 33 countries, in venues all around the downtown. Headliners have included Johnny Cash, Steve Earle, Robert Plant, Lucinda Williams and Canadians Daniel Lanois and Neil Young.

This year's lineup will includes performances by Dolly Parton and East London rapper Dizzee Rascal; showcases by small labels from around the world, including Toronto's Paper Bag Records and Upper Class Recordings; industry speakers; and a keynote address by Lou Reed, accompanied by a screening of Julian Schnabel's documentary film Lou Reed's Berlin. (SXSW also has a film component.)

For the music industry, SXSW offers a one-stop opportunity to catch the next wave of hot bands before their bedroom eyes and scruffy haircuts grace the covers of SPIN and Rolling Stone magazines.

For music fans, it's a great chance to enjoy intimate performances by their favourite new artists - and maybe run into them later at another jam-packed show or at the bar.

With some downtown streets closed to traffic and every inch of commercial floor space - including clothing shops and hair salons - transformed into performance venues, things can get pretty crazy.

"SXSW brings a lot of money and energy into Austin," says Austin native Anna Gieselman, a massage therapist at the Milk + Honey day spa. "Traffic is bad, [restaurant] waits are unreal, and there are lots of out-of-towners clogging up our space. But every year, I meet at least five cool people from around the world, and I have limited access to amazing shows and movies that blow my mind. So, even if I complain about the masses invading, I'm reminded how much I love my city."

Of course, the city of 700,000 on the Colorado River boasts a rich, year-round cultural scene as well, including theatre, dance and the new Blanton Museum of Art at the University of Texas.

Residents love to jog, bike, canoe and kayak around their city's three artificial lakes, and a dip in the Barton Springs reservoir provides relief from the heat.

If cowboy boots are on your must-have list, Allen's Boots is the place to go.

When it comes to food, Lamberts Downtown Barbecue offers upscale dining with down-home flair.

Legendary music hall and restaurant Stubb's Bar-B-Que - a major SXSW venue - is known for its casual fare and gospel brunch on Sundays.

And when it comes to nightlife, this city can't be beat. The Horseshoe Lounge is a great little dive, while the Continental Club offers a more upscale environment. For good ol' country music, head to the Broken Spoke, a dance hall that has been going strong for 25 years. According to Gieselman, the Side Bar on East 7th Street boasts the best jukebox in town.

For celeb-spotting, check out the Four Seasons Lobby Lounge. As you munch your candied walnuts, soak up the posh ambience and spy on famous musicians, you'll see how Austin showcases the creative, authentic spirit that live music is all about.

Pack your guitar

Getting there

Major airlines fly to Austin with stops in other U.S. cities; starting May 1, Air Canada will begin non-stop flights from Toronto.

Music festival information

SXSW March 12-16; http://www.sxsw.com

Austin City Limits Music

Festival Sept. 26-28;

http://www.aclfestival.com

more information

Austin Convention &

Visitors Bureau

http://www.austintexas.org;

1-866-GO-AUSTIN