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San Francisco has always embraced mavericks and maverick ideas, from gold-rushers and dot-commers to Beatnik literature and gay marriage. It also prides itself in setting cultural trends -- psychedelic music, California cuisine -- and in being one of the most open-minded and diverse places in the country.

After all, how many cities can boast of hosting the clothing-optional Folsom Street Fair ( http://www.folsomstreetfair.com), which is part of something called Leather Week?Sorry, dear traveller, you'll have to wait until Sept. 25 for that event, but there's no lack of other distinctive activities to make for a fun long weekend in the city.

For instance, most of us have attended religious services, but how many have taken part in a lively gospel ceremony at a church dedicated to John Coltrane? And what about a late-night ride on a Mexican bus that takes revellers from one salsa club to the next? Or dinner at an elegant restaurant that screens art films? Or shopping at a pirate supply store that sells fine literature -- as well as eye patches and lard? "Only in San Francisco," is what both locals and visitors will say.

What's coming up

San Francisco, which has a large Asian-American population, finally has a museum that's worthy of its rich Asian heritage. The Asian Art Museum (200 Larkin St., 415-581-3500, http://www.asianart.org), a spacious facility that opened in 2003, has just unveiled The Kingdom of Siam, which runs through May 8. The museum calls the exhibition the first of its kind, showcasing royal jewellery, sculptures, temple furnishings and miniature paintings dating from 1350 to 1800.

Moving ahead several centuries, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (151 Third St., 415-357-4000, http://www.sfmoma.org), which is celebrating its 10th year in architect Mario Botta's striking building, is honouring the work of local artist Robert Bechtle through June 5. Done in a photorealist style, Bechtle's paintings are Californian to the core, showing street-corner scenes bathed in sunlight.

San Francisco is a major music hub, and the SFJazz series (415-788-7353, sfjazz.org) is one of the most prominent events of the year. The series' spring season, which runs from March 12 to June 26 at venues such as the Palace of Fine Arts Theatre (3301 Lyon St.; 415-567-6642) and the Masonic Center (1111 California St., 415-776-4702), features appearances by everyone from veteran artists Dave Brubeck and Shirley Horn to younger talents Joshua Redman and Christian McBride.

On the big screen, roughly 200 films from about 50 countries will be shown at the always-packed San Francisco International Film Festival (415-931-3456, http://www.sfiff.org). The fest, now in its 48th year, runs April 21 to May 5 at four theatres in the San Francisco Bay Area, including the landmark Castro Theatre (429 Castro St., 415-621-6120, castrotheatresf.com), a gem of a 1920s movie palace. In a ceremony on April 29, the festival will honour actor Joan Allen and director Taylor Hackford, whose film Ray is nominated for a best-picture Oscar.

A number of big outdoor events will draw crowds into the streets of San Francisco this spring. They include the Northern California Cherry Blossom Festival (415-563-2313, http://www.nccbr.org), held in the Japantown neighbourhood on April 16, 17, 23 and 24; the Bay to Breakers Foot Race (415-359-2800, http://www.baytobreakers.com), an informal 12-kilometre race that will attract costumed (and nude) runners on May 15; and the Carnaval Parade and Festival (415-920-0125, http://www.carnavalsf.com), San Francisco's version of Brazil's big bash, on May 28 and 29.

Diversions

Since San Francisco is a relatively small city -- roughly 11 square kilometres -- it's easy to get around on foot. Parking in the city is a pain, and as the weather is mild year-round, you may want to have some fun tooling around on a scooter, available at Scootcar Rentals (431 Beach St., 415-567-7994, scootcar.net).

One way to see the city, while getting vigorous exercise, is the Mexican Bus (415-546-3747, mexicanbus.com). One of two colourfully painted buses -- one from 1965, the other 1973 -- drives passengers around to a half-dozen salsa dance clubs in the city. The friendly crew keeps you entertained between stops. Get your rest beforehand: The bus takes you home at 2:20 a.m.

A favourite new spot for San Franciscans is an indoor/outdoor marketplace at the renovated Ferry Building on the waterfront (415-693-0996, http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com). A stretch of ugly, elevated freeway used to run in front of the building; in its place are vintage trolley cars once used in other cities. They travel along the bay front, giving riders a superb view of the Bay Bridge -- the Golden Gate's blue-collar counterpart -- and the city skyline.

A recent addition to the city's large park system is Chrissy Field (603 Mason, Presidio, 415-561-7690, http://www.chrissyfield.org), a former military airfield. Restored with native plants, the park is a great place for a walk or jog and offers perhaps the best view in the city of the Golden Gate Bridge. Beyond the bridge are beaches frequented by few tourists: China Beach and Baker Beach (the latter popular with gay sunbathers). The biggest of all the city's green spaces is Golden Gate Park, which stretches east-west for about five kilometres. One of the park's many highlights is the newly restored Conservatory of Flowers, which houses tropical plants from all over the world.

Many guidebooks direct readers to Fisherman's Wharf, the city's version of Disneyland. Better to avoid the area and explore other neighbourhoods, such as the lively and gritty Mission District, a largely Latino neighbourhood that's become increasingly trendy. The district is home to such varied places as the Mission Cultural Center (2868 Mission St., 415-643-2785, http://www.missionculturalcenter.org), which offers drop-in classes on something as eclectic as Afro Peruvian dance; and Foreign Cinema (2534 Mission St., 415-648-7600, http://www.foreigncinema.com), a sleek restaurant that projects art-house films for diners. Also in the neighbourhood is 826 Valencia (826 Valencia St., 415-642-9505, 826valencia.org/store), a non-profit writing centre for kids (founded by novelist Dave Eggers) that's fronted by a pirate supply store.

Another spot like no other is the St. John Coltrane African Orthodox Church (930 Gough St., 415-673-3572, http://www.saintjohncoltrane.com), where the late jazz great is celebrated every Sunday at noon with a gospel service. Presiding over the mass is Bishop Franzo King, who three decades ago was so moved by Coltrane's message of love that he honoured the musician with a church. King also plays a mean saxophone. All are welcome.

Not far from North Beach, the Italian American district, where the Beatniks hung out in City Lights Books (261 Columbus Ave., 415-362-8193, http://www.citylights.com), is Coit Tower (1 Telegraph Hill Blvd., 415-362-0808, http://www.coittower.org), which offers spectacular views of the city and also houses wonderful murals that depict daily life in the Bay Area in the 1930s. Elsewhere, the Castro, the legendary gay district, has suffered from an influx of kitschy boutiques, but it's still a vibrant neighbourhood, as is South of Market, or SoMa, where many small art galleries are located.

Where to stay

Affordable hotels in San Francisco aren't that easy to find, but the Phoenix Hotel (601 Eddy St., 415-776-1380, http://www.jdvhospitality.com/hotels/hotel/12) is a good option. A renovated 1950s motel, it's popular with visiting rock musicians and artists. Room rates start at $109 (all amounts in U.S. dollars, all room rates based on double occupancy).

A pricier, more elegant place is the conveniently located Hotel Monaco (501 Geary St., 1-866-622-5284, http://www.monaco-sf.com), which has a two-storey fireplace and fanciful sculptures in the lobby. Room rates start at $139.

The luxurious W Hotel in downtown San Francisco (181 3rd St., 415-777-5300, http://www.whotels.com) is classy without being stuffy. Room rates start at $279.

Culinary picks

San Franciscans love their food, and the city has some of the best, most diverse restaurants in the country. One can get tasty, affordable Mexican food at La Taqueria (2889 Mission St., 415-285-7117) or very tasty, expensive Mexican food at Maya (302 2nd St., 415-543-2928).

The Slanted Door (1 Ferry Building, 415-861-8032) is the king of the city's Vietnamese restaurants, and Delfina (3621 18th St., 415-552-4055) is among the best for Italian food. The exquisite Fleur de Lys (777 Sutter St., 415-673-7779) consistently wins accolades for its French food, and Ti Couz (3108 16th St., 415-251-7373) is the perfect place for an inexpensive, hearty dinner of crepes. For vegetarians, few restaurants can match Greens (Fort Mason Center, 415-771-6222).

After dark

San Francisco closes fairly early, as cities go, but there are still many options for night owls. For music, there is the storied Fillmore (1805 Geary Blvd., 415-346-6000, http://www.thefillmore.com); the Great American Music Hall (859 O'Farrell St., 415-885-0750); the late John Lee Hooker's Boom Boom Room, for blues (1601 Fillmore St., 415-673-8000); the Plush Room, for lounge acts (The York Hotel, 940 Sutter St., 415-885-2800); Harry's on Fillmore, for jazz (2020 Fillmore St., 415-921-1000); and the Club du Nord for small rock shows (495 Geary St., 415-929-2372).

Café Niebaum-Coppola (961 Kearny St., 415-291-1700), owned by film director Francis Ford Coppola, is a cozy space (Coppola routinely stops by), and Tosca Café (242 Columbus Ave., 415-986-9651), just up the street, makes a fair amount of money from local celebrities such as Sean Penn, Nicolas Cage and Robin Williams.

For pure rain-forest kitsch (one gets rained on by a light tropical "shower"), have a big, colourful cocktail at the Tonga Room (Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St., 415-772-5000). You'll forget all about Canada. And San Francisco, for that matter.