THE GREEN FAIRY

LAURA SERRA

From Saturday's Globe and Mail

The Ossington

61 Ossington Ave., Toronto

416-850-0161

"A glass of absinthe," Oscar Wilde said, "is as poetical as anything in the world." More than a century later, the poetry lives on.

As the drink of choice among such 19th-century writers and painters as Charles Baudelaire and Vincent van Gogh, the highly alcoholic absinthe (also known as the "green fairy") evokes a bohemian vibe that, like nerdy eyeglasses, is making a comeback.

"Absinthe fits with the aesthetic of the bar and the spirit of the place," says Ben Rahn, co-owner of The Ossington.

Situated on the buzzing Ossington Avenue strip of hipster bars, vintage shops and shabby-chic restaurants, this latest addition is no frills and proud of it.

"It's not a bar that's trying to appeal to anything other than what the street is," general manager Pat Colosimo says. "We're a neighbourhood bar that facilitates local events in hopes of drawing in some of the art crowd."

A venture more than 20 years in the making, The Ossington was conceived by Rahn and co-owner/lifetime friend Andrew Salem when they were teenage busboys in Hamilton.

Staying true to their plan, the place boasts two ambiances: an open front room with a classic bar feel and row of window seats perfect for people-watching (to evoke Baudelaire's obsession with voyeurism, perhaps?) and a darker, more mysterious back room that is host to such things as quiet nights, wild dance parties and curated private events.

Watch for an ever-expanding wine selection as Rahn and Salem look to craft a casual wine culture with a reasonably priced yet unique list in the making.

"We're just the neighbourhood bar for an arty street," Rahn says.

Drop by Monday nights - the word on the street is the bartender likes to put absinthe on sale.

Laura Serra

Absinthe

1 ounce absinthe

1 sugar cube (Alandia, preferably)

1 cup ice-cold water

Rest a slotted spoon over the shot of absinthe and place the sugar cube on top. Slowly pour the ice-cold water over the sugar and into the absinthe to create a clouding effect called "louching."

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