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Locals called Christian Barthomeuf a nutcase when he planted a vineyard in the Eastern Townships.

But 30 years later, there are about 50 wineries just like his. Their wines have won more than 300 medals in North American and international competitions. And best of all: There's a dedicated trail to guide visitors right to the doorsteps of the province's critical darlings.

Less than an hour from Montreal, La Route des Vins winds its way through the highest concentration of vineyards in Quebec, 132 kilometres of micro-climates varied enough to be reminiscent of those in Tuscany.

The vineyards tend toward small, family-run productions that are either certified organic or have chosen more environmental viticultural practices.

At Clos Saragnat vineyard, for example, Barthomeuf produces what he calls real vins de terroir, or wines of the land, that use no additives and a natural fermentation process. The result: Both icewine - Quebec's most famous wine - and ice cider.

Another vineyard that has distinguished itself is the tiny three-hectare Les Pervenches winery in Farnham. It's one of the few certified organic vineyards in the region and, a rarity in the province, produces chardonnay - including bottles for Montreal restaurants such as Au Pied de Cochon and Toqué.

"Our vineyard is our garden," says Veronique Hupin, the vineyard's co-owner. "For us, it's important to keep our wine healthy. We believe it makes a difference in the wine. There's more life in the soil. We wanted life in all the soil layers."

As for other wineries in the area, because traditional grape production does not work well in Quebec's climate, vintners usually have to choose hybrid or rarer grape varieties for their vineyards. But Simon Naud, co-owner of La Bauge winery in Brigham, says Quebec hybrids are known to be fresh, delicate and aromatic.

This might not be immediately apparent from the name Naud chose for his vineyard. La Bauge translates as "wild boar's den." But that's because it was founded in 1976 to raise animals for restaurants in Old Montreal. Visitors can still see exotic species such as llamas, yaks, emus, red deer and, of course, boars. "It's become the signature of our vineyard," Naud says.

Still, most vitners concentrate on wine, and their concentration pays off. Take Chapelle Ste-Agnes winery in Sutton. Built on a steep hillside with massive stone walls supporting 18 terraces, it won two awards for its icewine at the 2006 International Wine and Spirit Competition.

True, the climate in the Missisquoi Valley is ideal for the riesling grapes that are hand-picked in winter to create icewine. But Chapelle owner Anthony John says the grapes also demand devotion.

"Quebec winemakers are just as hardy as the [grape varieties] they grow," he says. "We're pretty passionate about the wine and we work hard at it. Maybe it's the French culture, but there are a lot of wine maniacs here."

For more information, visit laroutedesvins.ca.

For details on La Fête des Vendanges - a festival that celebrates Quebec wines every August and September in the town of Magog - visit fetedesvendanges.com.