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I accepted with pleasure the offer to be this year's spokesman for the renowned Magdalen Islands lobster. I have worked with the Magdalens' fishermen for many years, and in my opinion, they produce the best lobster in the country: sweet, tender and tasty.

I am also aware of how important the industry is for the region and its economy. Lobster fishing is a long-standing tradition in the Magdalen Islands. Very early in the morning during the first weekend of May, people are invited to go to each of the islands' harbours to witness the launch of the season with the benediction of the boats and their departure to sea with their traps.

The fishing season lasts nine to 12 weeks. It is short and the demand is high. Nonetheless, local fishermen are conscious that the supplies are not unlimited. They agreed to lower their quotas by three traps a year for the past three years in an effort to respect the environment and prevent the lobster population from being overfished.

Magdalen lobsters are usually found in sandy or rocky areas at the bottom of the ocean. They feed on little fish, crabs, mollusks and seaweed. What makes the Magdalen lobster especially good and particularly sweet is the cold temperature of the water. Lobsters found in warmer environments and in muddy bottoms often develop a muddy taste.

Lobsters should be purchased fresh and alive. They can be kept for two days if refrigerated and covered with a damp cloth. You can eat them cold or warm, but they must always be cooked. They are commonly boiled, steamed or grilled. Very low in saturated fats and high in omega-3 fatty acids, they are known to help protect against cardiovascular disease.

What I find interesting about lobster meat is that it can be prepared in so many different contexts.

The best restaurants in the world serve it as part of their elaborate tasting menus but it can also be eaten very casually, outside on a picnic table with friends and family, cooked on a barbecue and served simply with a good mayonnaise.

One of my favourite lobster dishes is the guédille, a famous recipe very popular on the islands. The lobster is simply placed in a hot dog bun or brioche-style bread with mayonnaise, chervil, scallions and celery. It takes a big mouth, but is delicious and

nutritious.

At Toqué we cook the lobster in two steps, removing the claws early to avoid overcooking, which makes lobster meat rubbery. I also suggest you use sea water to cook lobster to preserve its delicate taste.

Whether boiled or steamed, hot or cold, with mayo, in a salad, in a sandwich, in a risotto or in a surf and turf, Magdalen Islands lobster is delicious and should be savoured over the next three months or, if possible, plan a family vacation in the islands and eat your lobster on the spot You will find great beaches, a beautiful natural environment, generous people and lots of outdoor activities such as a sandcastle competition. It is a wonderful area to discover.

GUÉDILLE AU HOMARD

What you need

2 lobsters, 1 to 1½ pounds each

½ cup of homemade mayonnaise

3 tablespoons finely cut scallions

1 cup chopped celery

2 to 3 tablespoons fresh herbs

4 hot dog buns (You can either make homemade dough such as brioche rolled into a hot dog bun shape or use store-bought buns.)

What you do

Once the lobsters are cleaned, slice into small chunks. In a bowl, mix the lobster with the mayonnaise, scallions and celery.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add chopped fresh herbs. You can use chervil, parsley or basil - something fresh from the garden.

Place mixture in the sliced rolls. Enjoy

Normand Laprise is co-owner and head chef of Toqué in Montreal

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Beppi's wine matches

Whereas plain boiled lobster is the perfect culinary canvas for a complex white Burgundy or California chardonnay, this tangy, informal preparation calls for something simpler with higher acidity. Try it with sauvignon blanc, such as a Touraine or Pouilly-Fumé from France or one of any number of increasingly good sauvignon blancs (sometimes labelled fumé blanc) from Canada. Good producers include Peninsula Ridge, Henry of Pelham and Château des Charmes from Ontario, and Mission Hill and Sumac Ridge from British Columbia. Another good choice would be dry riesling.

Beppi Crosariol