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Beat the heat this summer by adding Monforte's sheep's milk halloumi to your menu.

Halloumi, a cheese that originates from Cyprus, does not melt when heated. Instead, it develops a delicious crust that surrounds a slightly springy, mild interior that squeaks between your teeth. Serve it atop a bed of arugula with a lemon-caper dressing for one of the simplest meals of the summer.

Monforte Dairy in Millbank, Ont., is owned and run by former chef Ruth Klahsen, who is also the lead cheese maker. The dairy produces an impressive variety of all-natural sheep's milk cheeses ranging from halloumi to smoked ricotta and piacere, a fragrant cheese coated with rosemary, chili pepper and juniper berries.

Ms. Klahsen's instincts as a chef lead her to experiment, adding herbs or ash to the exterior of the cheese to create different products. The same way a chef may craft unique sauces from a basic béchamel, she sees countless flavour possibilities in a vat of curd.Traditional halloumi is made from sheep's milk, or a mixture of sheep's and goat's milk. Produced for centuries on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, halloumi's roots are believed to go back even further, to early nomadic Bedouin tribes. It is popular throughout Greece, Turkey and the Middle East.

Although it can be eaten fresh, this cheese is traditionally preserved in brine, which gives it a salty flavour. Chopped mint is often added.Halloumi does not ooze into a cheesy puddle when heated because the curd is cooked in whey at very high temperatures that alter the protein structure in the cheese, allowing it to withstand heat.

Monforte's halloumi lacks the expected saltiness, which gives it a lot of versatility in the kitchen. Like fresh ricotta, it has a mild taste that compliments other flavours.

Simply fry it until browned and garnish to your heart's content. Serve it with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon, or add some finely chopped chilies or sautéed haricot beans on top.

For a traditional summer appetizer, pair grilled halloumi with watermelon. Or try it Lebanese-style. Halloumi is a popular street food in Lebanon, cubed onto a kebob skewer.

This is all assuming you have the willpower not to bite into its crusty, soft texture moments after you've cooked a golden slice.

Sue Riedl is part of the pastry team at Toronto's C5 restaurant.

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Beppi's wine matches

The right beverage will depend to a great extent on the garnishes. If you go the haricots route, try sauvignon blanc. Hot chilies? Riesling from a New World region such as Canada or Australia. Lemon and parsley? Try any white wine from Greece made from the zippy asyrtiko grape, one of the country's best varieties.

Beppi Crosariol

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On the block

Cheese Monforte halloumi

Origin Millbank, Ont.

Producer/Cheese maker Monforte Dairy, Ruth Klahsen

Milk Pasteurized sheep's milk

Type Artisan, semi-soft, cooked, pressed, with a layer of mint

Shape 2-kilogram wheel

Food Matches For a refreshing sandwich, combine fried halloumi slices with arugula and ripe tomato in a fresh pita.

Notes The Monforte halloumi is currently only available in Ontario, but halloumi is available across Canada at various retailers (especially where Greek foods are sold). Whole Foods Vancouver sells Pittas halloumi from Cyprus. Look for a cheese made with sheep's or goat's milk; some of the mass-produced cow's milk versions lack the traditional flavour and quality.

Distributor Monfortedairy.com

Available

Ontario: Contact Monforte Dairy 1-877-437-5553

Toronto: Cheese Boutique, Nancy's Cheese (Harbord Bakery)

Markets: St. Lawrence Market, north side, Saturdays; Trinity Bellwoods Farmers' Market, Tuesdays 3 to 7 p.m.; Sorauren Farmers' Market, Mondays, 3 to 7 p.m.