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Remember in April, when I wrote about the start of lobster season in the Magdalen Islands and the launching of lobster traps into the ocean? I spent four great days there last month fishing, eating and drinking with the local crowd.

The activities started at 4 a.m. Saturday morning. We took three trips out into the water to set 291 traps. On Monday, at 4 a.m. again, I left with local fisherman Germain Cyr and his team for a long, 12-hour day of fishing. I may not be a morning person, but at least I did not get seasick

We caught 580 lobsters for a total of about 1,000 pounds. One of them was more than 6½ pounds. We did not keep them all; we sent about 150 back into the sea.

Conscientious fishermen do not keep female lobsters with eggs, or ones that are too small. This shows respect for their environment and will help protect it for future generations.

This is why I like to work with small, local producers. I would not feel comfortable obtaining seafood from big North American companies that destroy the bottom of the sea. I will always pay more to be confident the fishing has been done ethically.

My role was to attach elastics around the lobsters' claws that read "aliment du Québec." This indicates the produce is from Quebec and is a step forward in making food traceable - a topic I will address in a future column.

I came back from the Magdalen Islands exhausted, but not so much as to fail to notice crab season was also starting. Since crab is one of my favourite shellfish, I was almost ready to go back.

I particularly enjoy snow crab because it is sweet and pairs well with asparagus, which is phenomenal at this time of year. Like Oscar Wilde said, "I hate people who are not serious about their meals"... or fish

Share my passion and indulge in this crab recipe prepared by Charles-Antoine, my chef de cuisine.

Snow Crab and Asparagus in Tomato Gelée

What you need

4 to 5 large tomatoes

Sheets of gelatin as needed

16 large asparagus spears

500 grams of snow crab meat

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

What you do

Cut tomatoes into cubes and place in blender. Pulse a few times until tomatoes are crushed (but not puréed). Place pulp in cheesecloth, tie and hang over a container until all the juice has drained through. Bring the juice to a quick boil and skim the impurities from the top. At this point the liquid will separate and you will be left with a clear tomato water. Season with salt and pepper and jellify the tomato water: For every 100 millilitres of liquid, use one sheet of gelatin. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, blanch your asparagus in salted water. Cool and reserve. Once the tomato water has cooled, pour into serving dish (about 75 millilitres per bowl). Leave in the fridge 10 to 15 minutes. As the gelée starts to set, cut asparagus into bite-sized pieces and place with crab throughout the gelée. Leave in fridge until completely set.

When ready, liberally drizzle the olive oil on top and season with fine sea salt and crushed pepper. It is also a great idea to sprinkle some fresh herbs and edible flowers on top. This is where you can be creative and utilize whatever is growing in your garden. Serves 4.

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Beppi's wine matches

This dish is a mission for Sancerre, the great sauvignon blanc named after a district of France's Loire Valley. One good option: Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Baronnes ($29.99 in British Columbia; $24.95 in Ontario). A sauvignon blanc from anywhere else, such as New Zealand or Canada, would also work well. Readers in the West might consider Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc from British Columbia ($19.99). Another option would be a lean, crisp Chablis from France such as Domaine Servin Chablis ($19.95 in Ontario) or an unoaked (or lightly oaked) chardonnay from Canada.