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Vancouver's premier fish restaurant, C, is set to put wild B.C. sockeye on the menu for the first time in two years, despite concerns among sustainable seafood organizations such as the Vancouver Aquarium's Ocean Wise program and the environmental group SeaChoice.

SeaChoice lists all wild B.C. salmon as a "yellow" choice this season, meaning there are sustainability concerns.

"We would say to consumers that it should be reserved for special occasions," said Jeffery Young, aquatic biologist at the David Suzuki Foundation, one of the member organizations in SeaChoice.

Asked for the most responsible choice restaurateurs could make, he said: "They should look more closely at the seafood options available on the 'green,' sustainable list." (The list can be viewed at seachoice.org.)

Harry Kambolis, owner of C, yesterday defended his decision to reintroduce wild B.C. sockeye salmon. "We are supporters of wild salmon and that is ultimately our favourite product. We are always after the properly sustainable choice and we pretty much support anybody who is doing the right thing. That's what we are doing here."

C took sockeye off its menu two years ago because of its precarious status. In April, Robert Clark, executive chef of C, told The Globe and Mail that "this may be the last year for wild B.C. sockeye."

Widely regarded as the West Coast sustainable seafood guru, Mr. Clark also told The Globe that although his close relationships with sustainable fisheries mean he can source ethical product unavailable to the wider market, the very fact he has a certain fish on his menu gives other restaurateurs a green light to serve it, regardless of source.

Using the troubled rockfish as an example, Mr. Clark said: "Other places will say, 'If C has it, we can sell it,' and they'll go get any old rockfish."

Ocean Wise's seasonal salmon report for 2008 recommends that people "avoid" all B.C. wild sockeye salmon. It adds that of what's available, "Nass sockeye may be [the] best option."

The sockeye that C will serve is from the Nass, caught by an experimental new tangle net system that allows any by-catch to be released unharmed. Given that sockeye remains on Sea Choice's yellow list, this particular catch is the best choice available.

"We expect very low availability of wild B.C. salmon this year," the Suzuki foundation's Mr. Young said. "There won't be many from the Nass this year - it certainly won't supply enough to meet demand."

C's first shipment of sockeye was cancelled this week as only three fish were caught, according to the restaurant's public relations representative.

A news release announcing its decision to put sockeye back on the menu stated: "C Restaurant is thrilled to welcome wild B.C. sockeye onto the menu - for as long as it lasts."