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HILTON MOLINO STUCKY

Giudecca, 810; 30133 Venice, Italy; 39 041 272-3311; http://www.molinostuckyhilton.com.

ROOMS AND RATES

380-rooms, including 88 executive rooms and 44 suites. Rates start at about $320 a night.

Year after year, century after century, not much has changed in Venice. That's why everyone in town knows about the new Hilton hotel, formerly a sprawling 19th-century flour mill. On Giudecca, one of a string of islands across from the main archipelago, the distinctive red-brick complex has been a city landmark for years. A four-year, $320-million renovation has preserved the original façade while adding all the mod-cons of a contemporary hotel, including a rooftop pool.

LOCATION Most of quiet mile-long Giudecca is the domain of residents who enjoy spectacular views of the action across the canal while indulging in the sedate comforts of everyday Venetian life - a café here, a barking dog there, a few art galleries. The Stucky anchors the western side of the island, and includes gracious gardens and courtyards lit by Venice's signature pink-glass street lamps. Removed from the tourist throngs of Piazza San Marco and the Ponte Rialto - but only a 10-minute boat ride away - this is the perfect place to soak up the real Venice.

DESIGN Where possible, Hilton has kept or reused industrial features from the mill in both the guest rooms and the public spaces. These include massive wooden ceiling beams, vaulted brick archways, Gothic mullioned windows and iron columns.

ROOMS Soothing neutral palettes prevail, and rooms offer generous water or courtyard views. Marble-clad baths feature luxurious extras like digital scales, makeup mirrors, towel warmers and phones.

AMBIENCE An expansive, light-filled lobby and corridors lined with meeting rooms suggest this hotel is primarily a business retreat.

CLIENTELE The hotel draws a mix of Italians and other

Europeans, Americans and

Canadians, including honeymooners and families.

SERVICE Despite its brand name, service at the Stucky is uneven, most notably at turndown. Waste baskets were left unemptied, decorative pillows cluttered the bed, and curtains remained open. Sometimes a treat was left on bedside tables, sometimes not.

FOOD AND DRINK Executive rooms have access to a club floor that includes food spreads - from breakfast to afternoon tea to post-dinner munchies and cocktails - throughout the day.

Otherwise, the hotel offers a lavish breakfast buffet in Il Molino and dinner service in the upscale trattoria Aromi. The Skyline Bar, on the roof terrace, is popular for pre-dinner drinks.

THINGS TO DO Explore little-traversed Giudecca by strolling to the other end of the island, where the famous Hotel Cipriani holds court. Along the way, you can check out the Redentore Church, designed by Andrea Palladio, and Harry's II, the sister café to the famous Harry's American Bar.

You can also take the Hilton's shuttle boat to Dorsoduro, just across the water, where you'll find two of Venice's top museums, the Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

Or if you want a little adventure, ask the Hilton to enroll you in gondolier training, a program that grants newbies plenty of helm time during a three-hour gondola ride ($574 per party). Upon completion, you'll receive a traditional black-and-white striped shirt for your efforts.

*****

Hotel vitals

TOP DRAW

The quiet location gives visitors a hint of authentic Venetian life yet allows them to easily sample - via the fun boat shuttle - all of the city's cultural attractions.

NEEDS WORK

Service can be iffy, and the overly doodaded guest rooms can backfire, with hard-to-figure-out air conditioning and lighting.