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As I write this column in my mother's kitchen in my hometown of Sesto Cremonese, I'm already thinking about my next meal.

I could blame this on the fact that food is my business. Or that I don't get to enjoy this kind of food often in Canada, since most pork products and cheeses I like are not allowed in the country.

But looking back, I realize that our days here revolve around eating: My family will take any excuse for a bite to eat, even before a big meal.

We're only following what most people do here - go out of their way to stop at a favourite place; meeting up with friends for a quick hello, an aperitif and a little antipasto.

In fact, if you happen to be in the Cremona area, you may observe the following routine: Around 11 a.m., people stop for a snack and a glass of white wine or aperitif.

Having an aperitif is a social event, and bars compete by preparing great cocktails and food.

Generally, cocktails are made with a bubbly wine and fresh fruit or one of the great concoctions of bitter drinks that are available in Italy.

The food is as varied and interesting as one can think of. Ingredients will change depending on the region, but the standard antipasto offerings include mozzarella di bufala, prosciutto di Parma and salami or even lardo (salt-cured pork fat), flanked by white anchovies, octopus salad, grilled and pickled vegetables, and frittata with fresh herbs, all accompanied by a great variety of bite-sized focaccia.

If you want to serve antipasto at home, most of the items can be found in gourmet stores already prepared. Find a trustworthy shop and let them help you with the selection.

There are many great products - locally made and imported, fresh and pre-made - it's only a matter of trial and error.

But the one thing I recommend taking the time to make at home is frittata, which also happens to be my favourite. It sounds simple, but there is an art to it.

Nothing beats the flavour of a Cremona-style frittata, and I guarantee that once you learn this one - my mother's recipe - it will become a favourite any time of the day.

FRITTATA DI MIA MAMMA

What you need

3 cups spinach

3 cups Swiss chard, green part only

1 cup green zucchini

12 eggs

2 cups grated parmigiano reggiano

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter3 cups white onions julienne

2 cloves of garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

What you do

Wash the spinach and the Swiss chard. Boil or steam them until they are tender. Squeeze the excess water out and chop them coarsely. Set aside.

Cut the zucchini in half and slice in half moons about 1/8inch thick. Set aside.

Crack the eggs in a bowl; add the cheese and the greens, season with salt and pepper and stir to loosen up the greens.

Preheat a skillet (12-inch, non-stick is preferred). Add olive oil, butter, onions, garlic and zucchini. Sauté until soft and translucent.

Add eggs and mix to incorporate the onions. Bake in a preheated oven at 350 F until the frittata is firm; insert a toothpick in the middle, and if it comes out dry the frittata is cooked.

This frittata must be a minimum of 1½inches thick.

Serves 8.

*****

Beppi's wine matches

This is one course for which sparkling wine isn't just a nice change of pace, it's strongly preferred.

Prosecco, the dry, northern Italian bubbly, would be a classic choice. For example: Valdo Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Marca Oro ($19.80 in British Columbia).

The splurge-worthy choice is a rare Italian bubbly called Franciacorta from a district not far from Cremona. Some people swear it's often as good as Champagne - and it can cost as much or more. One reliable choice is Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta ($37.70 in Ontario).

If you prefer a still white wine, try a Gavi from the northern Piedmont region, such as Principessa Gavia Gavi ($22.15 in Ontario) or Bersano Gavi ($17.46 in Newfoundland and Labrador).

Massimo Capra is chef and co-owner of Mistura Restaurant and Sopra Upper Lounge in Toronto, and guest chef on the show Restaurant Makeover.