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Next week, Jamie Kennedy, one of Toronto's most celebrated chefs, will load his van with Georgian Bay pickerel, gouda from Thunder Bay's Thunder Oak farm and smoked duck breast from Prince Edward County - and drive down Highway 401.

One of 16 Toronto chefs invited to headline Montreal's High Lights Festival, Mr. Kennedy will be preparing an Ontario-themed dinner at the 90-seat Le Jolifou, a restaurant located in an almost exclusively francophone east-end neighbourhood.

In so doing, Mr. Kennedy hopes to end the gastronomic rivalry between the two cities.

"It's been a bit of a cold war," Mr. Kennedy says. "I don't know what it stems from. But this is a wonderful opportunity for cultural communication."

The High Lights Festival, an annual event at which the top talent of an invited city takes over the kitchens of some of Montreal's finest eateries, has hosted 213 chefs from around the world since 2000, including the likes of Daniel Boulud and Charlie Trotter.

But this year's festival, which begins tomorrow and continues until March 2, has caused tremendous consternation among Montreal foodies fretting over Toronto's spot as the featured city.

Michel Labrecque, festival president and chief executive officer, says the Toronto choice was made, in part, to push Montrealers to "put aside their stereotypes and prejudices."

Montrealers feted past invited cities - New York, Chicago and even Vancouver. But Toronto has provoked some insecurity.

"I think Montrealers are worried they are better than us," Mr. Labrecque says.

Still, the crowds are coming out. Susur Lee, chef owner of Toronto restaurants Susur and Lee, is headlining as honorary president and will prepare a sold-out seven-course dinner at Ristorante Otto at the W hotel in Old Montreal on Saturday.

Many of the dinners to be prepared by Mr. Lee's team of Hogtown chefs have been sold out or near capacity for months, even those unapologetically advertising Ontario produce, game, cheese and wine.

Keith Froggett, executive chef of Scaramouche, is doing his house smoked salmon and lamb loin in a salsa verde crust at Aix Cuisine du Terroir at the Hôtel Place d'Armes. Marc Thuet will be at Laloux, a bistro in the Plateau, and Anthony Walsh of Canoe will be downtown at Decca77.

The Montreal chefs say the collaborations have forced them to appreciate the quality of Toronto restaurants.

Carl Röder, executive chef at Aix de Terroir who has been working with Mr. Froggett, admits he groaned at first when Toronto was announced.

"I thought Ontario was two steps backward," says Mr. Röder, who hails from Sept-Îles, Que.

But he says he was "blown away" by Mr. Froggett's restaurant kitchen and had one of the most memorable meals of his life when Mr. Froggett took him to Starfish, a Toronto oyster bar and seafood eatery.

He has also been impressed with the lamb and fish suppliers in Ontario, some of which he admits are better than those in Quebec. And he raved about a farmer who adjusts the diet of his rabbits according to the demands his chef clientele.

"[In Quebec], I can only get a standard rabbit from one supplier," Mr. Röder says.

Le Jolifou chef owner David Ferguson, who grew up in Toronto, says he jumped at the chance to show Montrealers that the cuisine of his hometown is not as boring as they suspect.

While he left Toronto in part because of diners' fussiness about fats and starches - he loves preparing braised meats - he said the influence of Asian food has created a "brightly coloured palette" in the city.

Still, many of the events at the festival have nothing to do with Toronto.

The opening dinner, on Friday, features a feast put together by five of Quebec City's top chefs honouring the capital's 400th anniversary.

Some restaurants are hosting chefs from Chile, the festival's featured country. After Mr. Kennedy leaves, Le Jolifou is preparing a multicourse menu pairing dishes made with chili spices and Chilean wines - such as quail with lardon salad and ancho oil paired with a Chilean cabernet sauvignon.

There are also niche events such as "Extreme Spores," a meal built around mushrooms at Pier Gabriel in Old Montreal.

Of course, this being Montreal, much of the festival is just about having a good time. Au Petit Extra, a popular east-end bistro, is doing Sunday brunch "On Queen" Street - even though the menu has nothing to do with Toronto.

"Queen Street is in Toronto?" chef Natalie Major asked. "I thought it was in New York."

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High Lights' highlights

In honour of Quebec City's 400th anniversary, five of that city's top chefs, including Daniel Vézina, are travelling to Montreal to create the festival-opening dinner. Feb. 22, 6 p.m., Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth, $200 including wine.

Susur Lee, honorary president of the festival's gourmet component, offers a seven-course meal at Ristorante Otto, Feb. 23, 6 p.m., $300 including wine.

The "Grande Raclette" at Marché Bonsecours is a massive cheese preparty kicking off an all-nighter that has more than 100 galleries, museums, movie theatres, jazz bars, lounges and even ice-skating rinks staying open. March 1, 7:30 p.m., $45.

Quebec cheese makers take questions and give tastes at the Festival of Our Cheeses at Complexe Desjardins, Feb. 21 to 23 and Feb. 28 to March 1, 11 a.m., free.

Jean-Pierre Challet of Toronto's The Fifth Grill is guest chef at XO Le Restaurant, Feb. 22 and 23, 6 p.m., $95-$225.

Keith Froggett of Toronto's Scaramouche is guest chef at Aix Cuisine du Terroir, Feb. 22 and 23, 6 p.m., $85-$135.

Marc Thuet of Toronto's Bistro & Bakery Thuet is guest chef at Laloux, Feb. 21 and 22, 6 p.m., $90-$140.

Anne Yarymowich of Agora at the Art Gallery of Ontario is guest chef at Cuisine et Dépendance, Feb. 28, 6 p.m., $60-$100.

Lorenzo Loseto of Toronto's George Restaurant is guest chef at Europea, Feb. 28, 6 p.m., $78.50. The restaurant is also playing host to Roland Del Monte, named Meilleur Ouvrier, or best pastry chef in France, Feb. 27, 6 p.m., $66.50.

Note: Many of the dinners are sold out. Please consult festival website, montrealenlumiere.com, to view many more eating opportunities. Prices vary according to wine and course selection.

Heather Sokoloff