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Let the air-kissing begin. Starting Monday, Toronto's top designers – 33 labels all told – get to look down the barrel of a hundred cameras before a crowd of 1,100 members of the fashion press (including a flurry of international journalists), retailers and scenesters.

But why wait until then to discover what fall 2008 will bring? Here, we offer a sneak peek at some of the most show-stopping numbers to hit the L'Oréal Fashion Week runways. (Jeremy Laing, who shows at New York fashion week, jumped the gun and presented his collection in Toronto last week.)

It is a confident season. “It's all about originality in the art world,” says Maeve Doyle, a Vancouver stylist who is en route to the shows. “In music, think Amy Winehouse, she's nothing if not authentic.”

“Painting is angry again – there is a fascination with Pollock and how angry is that? We now want our clothes to be exclusive works of art.”

Yes, chattering classes everywhere are enthralled with the art scene. The timing is perfect for Canadian labels, which, because of economies of scale, can't take on the big American guns when it comes to volume. And the knockoff trade is so swift, the “must-have” seasonal gimmick is losing its allure.

“There is now a reason to buy Canadian designers,” says Robin Kay, president of the Fashion Design Council of Canada, which produces fashion week. “They are artists, craftspeople. Each garment is precious, hand sewn.”

Here, some of our best show that they can create their own signature looks while nodding to international trends. The focus, just as in Paris and New York, is on luxury fabrics and workmanship. “The Canadian designer specializes in special pieces,” Kay says.

Actually, special outfits –

another trend. After years in which we were sheep if we didn't mix Gucci with Goodwill, it is now chic to buy the whole designer getup again. Consider the fire-engine red package by Pink Tartan on our cover. Separately, the sweater and trousers pack a punch. Together, they are a knockout.

“The item is dead,” says Toronto designer Joeffer Caoc, who has 10 years of sketches under his belt. “It's the big-statement extravagant pieces people want.” Think of it this way: When you're working the booming charity gala circuit, you've got to stand out to make the society pages.

One way would be with Caoc's feathered skirt and sheer shell, paired with a metallic mohair coat. “The feather skirt is a huge hit,” he says. (By the time the New York, London and Paris runways have been dismantled, much of the buying has been done.)

“The Canadian market didn't make sense,” Kay explains. “Designers had to make lots of basics to sell. But people don't want designer basics. They want everyone to know they are wearing designer duds.”

“Price is much less of an object these days,” seconds Caoc, whose ensemble rings in at about $3,000. What that means, is that designers “get to be artists again,” as Andy Thê-Anh puts it. The Montreal-based designer is showing in Toronto and not his hometown this season.

His blue silk evening dress, shown here, is a stunning take on the goddess gown, conjuring visions of ancient Roman statues and frescoes. Price tag: $1,325. “People who want to look different,” he says, “will look for more exclusive looks.”

And those who want to fully embrace the artistic fervour should turn to Jeremy Laing, who has been in the spotlight since his fall 2005 “petit debut,” and Lucian Matis, a newcomer who comes to fashion week via Project Runway Canada. The red Laing dress shown here is a canvas-like homage to geometric art; Matis's unexpected muslin-toned gown features hand-painted detailing and costume-like fullness.

While great art may be timeless, great art-inspired fashion is one better: It's ageless.

“Age doesn't matter,” says Thê-Anh. “I dress businesswomen and Quebec movie stars. They could choose the same thing and look completely different.”

Ah, yes – every canvas is a different story.

L'Oréal Fashion Week runs from March 16 to March 22. Public tickets are available, $20 for a single show or $50 for a day pass (invite-only shows not included). For schedules and to purchase tickets visit www.lorealfashionweek.ca.