A South Shore seafari

How better to enjoy stunning scenic coastline than paddling St. Margaret's Bay by kayak?

STEPHEN CLARE

HALIFAX From Wednesday's Globe and Mail

Atlantic Canada has long been a treasure trove of natural beauty, with Nova Scotia's South Shore sitting as the centrepiece of the region's stunning and diverse geography. Nowhere is this more visible than at St. Margaret's Bay, an idyllic setting long renowned for its seafaring possibilities.

Just a half-hour's drive from downtown Halifax and 40 minutes from Robert Stanfield Airport, the St. Margaret's Bay inlet is part of the province's Lighthouse Route, which runs from Halifax to Yarmouth, and is home to all things uniquely Nova Scotian: rugged landscape, quaint fishing villages, lobster suppers and miles of scenic coastline.

The region has also become a popular adventure destination, offering a host of outdoor activities to those looking for an affordable summer vacation. While the area boasts great hiking and biking opportunities, sea kayaking is also making waves.

"Kayaking is a great sport for beginners and experts of all ages," says John Hartling, co-owner of Sea Sun Kayak Island Coast Adventures. "It is a low-impact, low-maintenance activity that you can do on your own or with a group of friends or family members."

Hartling's company is one of several offering a variety of packaged and tailored kayak experiences. "A lot of people come to us for their first experience to learn about handling and safety. After that many of them will buy or rent a kayak and chart their own course."

If you do decide to go it alone, a good starting point is Indian Harbour, near Peggy's Cove, which has public docks and beaches from which to set out. Going north to Hacketts Cove, soak in the spectacular shoreline of granite boulders and rocky outcroppings.

A little farther along, near Glen Margaret, you'll be able to mingle with the natives — porpoises, seals, ocean sunfish, bald eagles and puffins that happy to escort you on your journey. Keep an eye out for the magnificent minke, northern right and finback whales as they feed and play in the shallow waters surrounding the area's nearby islands. "On a good day they will swim right up to your boat," Hartling says.

From there, visit the smaller fishing inlets of Seabright, French Village and Glen Haven. Feel free to moor at one of the many small docks and say hello to the residents; their warm welcome will remind you why Maritimers are renowned for their hospitality.

At the heart of the area is the Head of St. Margaret's Bay, a good place to relax because the inland tides are smooth and easy to navigate. Gently wind your way around Masons Point and take in the traditional homesteads at Todds Island and Allen Heights before heading back out into open waters. Watch out for traffic as you paddle past Clam Island toward Boutiliers Point, because cruisers and sailboats jam the harbour in summer. "Boats can move quite quickly, so always pay attention," Hartling cautions.

Heading west, stay close to shore and explore the area between Black Point and Queensland, where several white-sand beaches make for good spots to stop, snack, snooze or go for a swim. Queensland Provincial Park has several short, scenic hiking routes to stretch your legs. If you are looking for a place to lay your head for the night, nearby Hubbards Cove Beach has both a campground and cottages available, with restaurants and shopping within walking distance.

The expedition southwards along the bay's western coast may not offer the same rugged and barren scenery as its eastern counterpart, but it is still picturesque. The Aspotogan Peninsula is thick with woodlands, and many animals can be seen near the water's edge. "This is when you want to pull out the camera," says Hartling.

From Fox Point, past Mill Cove, Birchy Head to the Lodge, the paddling is almost effortless. Make your way around Owl's Head toward Southwest Island, where you can walk from one end to the other in less than an hour. Nearby Gravel Island is also worth a stop to search for starfish and seashells. Back inland, be sure to savour what might be the province's best-kept secret, Bayswater Beach. Although growing in popularity with weekend sun-seekers from Halifax, the site is usually very quiet, and the locals take great care to keep it that way.

Ideally, trips around St. Margaret's Bay should be broken up over two to three days.

Keep in mind that, along with the usual array of aches and pains, the effects of the summer sun are doubled when reflected off the water. "You should always carry plenty of supplies," Hartling says, "including appropriate clothing, sunglasses, sunscreen, a first-aid kit, insect repellent, waterproof matches, a compass, a whistle, a cellphone, nutritious snacks and lots of fluids.

"And don't forget the extra batteries for the camera."


PACK YOUR BAGS

Kayaking: Sea Sun Kayak Island Coast Adventures offers single kayaks for half days ($45) or full days ($65). Guided tours range from $75 for 4 hours to $495 for 3 days/2 nights. www.paddlenovascotia.com.

Lodging: The Oceanstone Inn is renowned for its convenience, charm and fine on-site dining; $95 to $365 a day. www.oceanstone.ns.ca

Dining: The Shore Club in Hubbards has been serving up its famous lobster suppers since 1946; $26.55 to $37.70, with kids menus available. www.lobstersupper.com

Don't miss: Peggy's Cove, Coastal Heritage Trail, Cleveland Beach Provincial Park, Granite Springs Golf Club, Swissair Flight 111 Memorial, S.S. Atlantic Heritage Park, Hatfield Farm Cowboy Adventures. www.peggyscovearea.com

Getting there: From Halifax, take Highway 103 to Exit 5 and follow the signs to St. Margaret's Bay. From Robert Stanfield Airport, take Highway 102 Southbound to Exit 3 and Highway 213. You can explore the region via Route 333, Highway 3, and Route 329.

Special to The Globe and Mail

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