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Some say aromatic, some say stinky. But when it comes to washed rind cheeses, don't let first impressions fool you. Often the pungent aroma belies less intimidating, sweet, nutty and tangy flavours. Some popular varieties may be familiar, such as Oka from Quebec, or notables such as French Époisse or Italian Taleggio.

Fromagerie Le Détour, in Quebec, produces the lesser-known Magie de Madawaska, a cow's milk, washed rind cheese that exudes rich, creamy indulgence. If you can find it at peak ripeness, around 50 days old (in France they refer to a cheese being à point at its peak) you're in for an unctuous, oozy treat. All it requires is a fresh, crusty baguette for support and perhaps a cold bottle of cider as accompaniment.

Even in its younger, milder state, Magie de Madawaska is enticing, although the texture will be firmer, and its sweet milk smell more discernible. This cheese, whose style was inspired by the European Époisse and Münster, has a moist, golden-orange rind that is flecked with white mould. The rind, which is edible, gives the cheese its robust greeting - the smell of mushrooms and earth. Inside, the flavour is tamer. Rich like butter and tangy like sour cream, it has a wonderful, long linger.

The Magie de Madawaska is ripened by the cheese makers for one month before being sold. Ginette Bégin, one of the co-owners, explains that during this time each wheel is washed every two days with brine and other "secret ingredients." It will continue to ripen in the package until sliced open.

The technique of washing the exterior of a cheese discourages growth of mould in high-humidity environments but encourages the development of friendly bacteria referred to as B.linens (Brevibacterium linens), whose presence ripens the cheese by breaking down the curd from the outside in. The powerful smell of the rind, and the characteristic pink, orange or red tones, are a by-product of the B.linens. Brine is most commonly used to wash a cheese, but beer, brandy, cider, wine, oil or whey are other alternatives.

And the name of the cheese? Magie is a combination of the husband and wife team's first names, Mario and Ginette, and Madawaska is the name of the first seigneurie of the region.

Continue to explore the world of washed rind cheeses with the Magie, and you may soon find yourself craving bigger and stinkier things.

On the block

Cheese Magie de Madawaska

Origin Notre-Dame-du-Lac, Que.

Producer Fromagerie Le Détour

Owners Ginette Bégin, Mario Quirion

Cheese maker Mario Quirion

Milk Pasteurized cow, Holstein

Type Washed rind, surface ripened, soft cheese

Note This cheese is made with a microbial enzyme (non-animal rennet), thus vegetarian-friendly.

Shape 1.3-kilogram wheel

Food matches Fresh baguette, toasted nuts, dark honey

Distributors Provincial Fine Foods, Dovre Import & Export (Western Canada), Fromagerie Atwater (Montreal)

Available

East Coast: Available in New Brunswick; check with your cheesemonger

Montreal: Fromagerie Atwater

Ontario: Pairings Specialty Food Market (Niagara-on-the-Lake);

Thin Blue Line, Art of Cheese, Whole Foods (Toronto)

Vancouver: Mount Pleasant Cheese

Sue Riedl studied at the Cordon Bleu in London.