BRAD WHEELER
From Wednesday's Globe and Mail Published on Wednesday, Aug. 27, 2008 10:56AM EDT Last updated on Tuesday, Mar. 31, 2009 8:33PM EDT
With Yankee Stadium in its final season, I'm reminded of my earliest memories of the House that Ruth Built. I heard often about the grand ballpark while growing up in western New York; thinking that my great-aunt Ruth had removed 45,000 cubic yards of earth, assembled 2,300 tons of structural steel and turned a million brass screws, I was impressed, though puzzled by the lack of doilies.
Of course it was Babe Ruth who opened the place in style in April, 1923. After John Philip Sousa led a performance by the city's celebrated 7th Regiment Band, the Yankees defeated the Boston Red Sox on the strength of a three-run blast from the Babe.
When the new Yankee Stadium opens in the spring, you can bet its beginning will be distinguished as well. Copying the field dimensions and aesthetics of the original - a replica of the 1923 copper façade will adorn the entire grandstand, for example - the new stadium will feature a stunning entry hall and other modern amenities.
Still, there is a majesty to the old Cathedral of Baseball that goes well beyond architecture. Where the new stadium will house a museum, the old park is a museum. Eight decades worth of ghosts, moments and mystique won't travel so easily.
Don Larson, who at Yankee Stadium in 1956 pitched the only perfect game in the history of World Series baseball, will see no reason to leave. The spirit of boxing hero Joe Louis, who so severely knocked about German heavyweight Max Schmeling in 1938 that the Fuhrer turned off his radio in disgust, stays. So does first baseman Lou Gehrig, who famously bid farewell to the Yankees faithful in 1939, saying that he considered himself fortunate, despite his namesake illness. Those sport legends get to stay. Lucky them.
For the rest of us, the Cathedral of Baseball is gone, but there are ways to get a similar experience. No Yankees fan would admit it, but several other parks around the United States offer a comparable blend of old-timey urban Americana and modern conveniences. Yes, the Yankees have won a record 26 world championships, but the dominant franchise has no monopoly on the simple allure of an outing at the ballpark: at these five stadiums, the rooting is just as passionate, the grass just as smooth and the hot dogs just as juicy.
AT&T PARK
(SAN FRANCISCO GIANTS)
Lore The pretty park received media attention thanks to Barry Bonds, the angry, record-setting home-run hitter who regularly launched balls into McCovey Cove, the body of water beyond right field named for former (and nicer) Giant slugger Willie McCovey. Fans in kayaks still give splashy chase to balls that bob on the water, but Bonds, disgraced for his casual animosity and suspected steroid use, no longer wears the orange and white team colours. That's okay, because the park's open, old-time feel and bayside setting are enduring draws.
Fans Since its opening in 2000, the San Francisco treat ranks fourth in attendance among major-league parks. Maybe fans like frolicking on the big inflatable Coca-Cola bottle beyond left field (it has playground slides on it). More likely, they're just pleased that the Giants have left the windswept Candlestick Park, which was Alcatraz without the view.
Food Named for the Hall of Fame outfielder, Say Hey! Willie Mays Sausages is a popular concession stand.
The zingy garlic fries stink (in a good way), and the wharf-style sandwiches are pretty fishy (again, in a good way). Wash these down with an Anchor Steam Ale.
Seats Sellouts are not uncommon at the open-air 41,500-seat facility, but standing-room tickets can be had for $20 (415-972-2000 or giants.mlb.com)
Tip For a maximum of three innings, visitors outside the park can watch the game for free from a public waterfront promenade.
FENWAY PARK
(BOSTON RED SOX)
Lore Like no other ball field, a visit to Fenway is a step back in time - the red brick building has integrated itself snugly into a residential neighbourhood since its opening in 1912. The park's dominating feature is the awesome "Green Monster," the left field fence, but quirky features abound - from the "Fisk Foul Pole" in left field (named for popular former catcher Carlton Fisk, whose 12th-inning game-winning home run in Game 6 of the 1975 World Series barely and famously stayed fair) to right field's "Pesky Pole," an homage to a light-hitting shortstop who occasionally took advantage of the park's short right-field porch.
Fans Highly loyal and passionate, locals reserve most of their belligerence for the hated New York Yankees and that franchise's equally obsessive supporters. That said, fans of any visiting team are trespassers in Red Sox Nation.
Food Fenway Franks, supplied by a roving vendor, on a folded slice of white bread, with a little packet of mustard - hot dog, we've got a wiener! On a cold day, clam chowder hits the spot. Inside concession areas are dark, but bustling and full of character. Standard fare is available in the street-fair setting outside the park.
Seats Hardcore fans and Major League Baseball's smallest park: You do the math. Over the years, owners have added seating wherever possible. Accommodation atop the Green Monster offers great views of everything except the vintage hand-operated scoreboard below (617-267-1700; you can bid on the Monster Seats at redsox.mlb.com).
Tip The women's washrooms, so I've heard, are more pleasant the farther you get from home plate.
PNC PARK
(PITTSBURGH PIRATES)
Lore Ten consecutive losing seasons speak to a decade of mismanagement of a once-proud, 115-year-old franchise, but the team did right by their fans with PNC Park, a classic gem located downtown on the bank of the Allegheny River, accessible by water taxi or the award-winning Roberto Clemente Bridge (closed to vehicles before and after games).
Fans We Are Family was the team song and motto when the Pirates last won the World Series in 1979. A genial, kid-friendly atmosphere prevails today.
Food Looking at the 3.6-metre bronze statue of Willie Stargell that guards the left field entrance, you imagine the late, burly slugger would have approved of the fare here. Manny's Bar-B-Q is a hit, and a ridiculous sandwich from Pittsburgh's own Primanti Brothers includes roast beef and cheese, with coleslaw and French fries in the bun. At this point, forget the diet soft drink - go ahead and order a Penn Pilsner or an Iron City brew.
Seats Plenty of tickets are available, from the $9 general admission bleachers to the $35 dugout box seats. Seats in the infield offer spectacular views of the city. (pirates.mlb.com or 412-323-5000).
Tip A corner room at Marriott's Renaissance Pittsburgh Hotel (800-468-3571; marriott.com) offers a view onto the field from across the river.
WRIGLEY FIELD
(CHICAGO CUBS)
Lore Steeped in history - goats and a curse are involved - and featuring a party-like enthusiasm, the humble 94-year-old Friendly Confines is recommended for baseball enthusiasts and non-fans alike. Root, root, root for the home team during the celebrity-led communal singing of Take Me Out to the Ballgame during the seventh-inning stretch.
Fans Identifiable by team-coloured garb, the long-suffering faithful are an excitable, amiable lot. Join the "Bleacher Bums" in the outfield seats, especially during the numerous day games. If you manage to catch a home run hit by the visiting team, you will be strongly encouraged by the bums around you to chuck it back onto the field.
Food In a poll recently conducted by the National Hot Dog & Sausage Council, the park's plump frankfurters were voted among the league's top dogs. For a second course, may we suggest a spicier wiener called a "red hot." Roving venders hurl bags of peanuts at you and pour cups of Heilman's Old Style. Off-site, Harry Caray's Steakhouse and the Billy Goat Tavern (of Saturday Night Live "cheezborger cheezborger" fame) are popular with visiting ball fans.
Seats Games regularly sell out (cubs.mlb.com or 773-404-2827) and scalpers thrive. StubHub!, an online ticket brokerage (stubhub.com), sells seats for games at Wrigley.
Tip The action begins well before the first pitch. Souvenir hunters chase batting-practice home runs on Waveland Avenue, and the locals flock to nearby sports bars Cubby Bear and Murphy's Bleachers before and after games.
ORIOLE PARK AT CAMDEN YARDS (BALTIMORE ORIOLES)
Lore When they built this splendid field in 1992, it launched a new age of fan-friendly, aesthetically pleasing downtown ballparks. A renovated warehouse beyond right field houses team offices and a restaurant overlooking the field. Even if the Orioles aren't in town, it's worth a tour.
Fans The team is less competitive than in years past, and a new franchise in nearby Washington vies for attention. But a relaxed vibe prevails at this jewel - and where in Baltimore would you rather be?
Food The gregarious former Oriole first baseman Boog Powell is the host of Boog's Barbecue, where the hickory smoked beef sandwich is the signature item (the "Boog" will autograph the container). Maryland crab cakes are an alternative to typical fare. The Baltimore Brew Pub offers eight beers on tap.
Seats The ballpark recently welcomed its 50 millionth fan, reaching the milestone faster than any other. But Cal Ripken is gone, and so are sellout seasons. Tickets are easy to get, from $9 seats up top to $80 field boxes (orioles.mlb.com or 1-888-848-2473).
Tip The Toronto Blue Jays close their 2008 season with a bird-battling weekend series at Camden Yards, Sept. 26-28.
Join the Discussion: