LE'GENT ANTIQUES, 4402, AT EAST 28TH AVENUE Some of Vancouver's finest antiques dealers are on Main Street. But I head to Le'Gent — partly for the French Provincial furniture, partly for the man who sources it.
Owner Masoud Asvadi is a colourful character who arrived in Canada from Iran six years ago, not speaking a word of English. Looking for something to do, he converted an old TV repair shop into a fabulous antiques store. Now, he'll happily show you around and delights in telling the stories behind a rug purchased in Paris at the turn of the past century or a $7,000 English dining room set built in 1867.
Just be sure to stake a claim if his heavily accented English sways you. This is a favourite haunt of set designers from Vancouver's thriving movie industry. And if antique chandeliers are your thing, you may not find a better collection anywhere.
CAFÉ MONTMARTRE, 4362, BETWEEN EAST 27TH AND EAST 28TH AVENUES A true bohemian gathering spot, this café is a favourite for area writers, poets and aspiring musicians, who chow down on terrific, fairly priced food and on weekends listen to up-and-coming singer-songwriters.
One hint of the offbeat vibe is the bathtub by the front door, which serves as a pot for a huge plant. Inside, the decor is equally unique (read: ironic). On the ceiling hang small bicycles and a toy baby carriage, and the tables and chairs wouldn't be out of place in a student's apartment.
As for that food: Montmartre's specialty is crepes. If you're in the neighbourhood, let me recommend the Divine — slices of baked chicken breast with a béchamel, herb and melted mozzarella sauce — for $11.95. And don't leave without trying (or splitting) a Monaco sundae, known to contain extremely healthy shots of Kahlua and espresso.
THE REEF, 4172, AT EAST 26TH AVENUE If you're not a fan of hot and fruity sauces — and you're uncomfortable in a grandparent-free, under-30 zone — you might want to stay away. But you will be missing out. This is probably the best Caribbean food in the city.
The kitchen is run by Paulette Wedderburn, otherwise known as Miss Paulette, who was born in Kingston, Jamaica, and was raised by a mother who shared with her the secrets of making amazing curries.
Miss Paulette also makes a mean jerk. Her marinade is a spicy North Coast recipe that consists of, among other things, bay leaves, scallions, cloves, garlic, ginger and scotch bonnets — then, to give it true soul, she adds a little of this and a little of that. (And if you ever figure out what the "little bit of this and a little bit of that" is, you could be rich.) Oh, if you're wondering if you're in the right place or not, you'll know by the surfboards hanging from the walls and the floor-to-ceiling posters of palm trees.
HELEN'S GRILL, 4102, AT EAST KING EDWARD AVENUE An East Side institution, this classic diner has been around for 88 years. And it looks it.
The booths still have juke boxes. The floor is red-and-black checkered tile. Plants hang limply, and I mean limply, from the ceiling beside strings of Tiffany lamps. There's also a long counter with swivel chairs where you can get a real milkshake in the metal container it was created in.
And you just don't see menus like these any more — by which I mean menus with all-day breakfasts, veal cutlets and liver and onions. Plus seniors' menus for customers who have been coming here since it was called the Aristocratic way back when, such as one fellow who used to be a beat cop in the area 70 years ago.
Someone even wrote a cult novel in one of the booths here. Just don't ask me who the author was or what the book was called.
