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While North Americans indulge their sweet tooth with sugary Halloween treats, northern Spain's Catalans are enjoying a different kind of edible delight: panellets.

These decadent marzipan cookies are eaten throughout the fall in Catalonia, but their real day in the spotlight is Nov. 1, All Saints' Day, when they are traditionally served with sweet muscat wine.

There are probably as many recipes for panellets (pronounced pan-ey-ets) as there are Catalan families. The original - a small ball of ground almonds, sugar and potato covered with pine nuts - is still closest to Catalan hearts, but it's no longer the only one.

Some recipes have exchanged the humble spud for the same amount of sweet potato, or added egg or more sugar to the base. Others have turned the cookie on its head by playing with toppings or flirting with new flavours: Strawberry liqueur, cocoa powder, coffee, coconut, lemon extract and cinnamon are now often mixed with the basic marzipan for greater variety.

Whether dressed up or in its original simplicity, the cookie is an elegant fall indulgence that's nearly as easy to make as it is to devour. Here is a recipe that sticks close to tradition, while letting you experiment with toppings.

PANELLETS

What you need

Dough

4 cups ground blanched almonds (firmly packed)

1¾ cups white sugar

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon (optional)

1 large potato (about 2/3 cup once mashed)

Butter for greasing

Topping

3 egg yolks, lightly whisked

¾ cup pine nuts

¾ cup toasted chopped almonds or hazelnuts

½ cup ground coconut

What you do

Preheat the oven to 400 F and grease a baking sheet with butter. In a large bowl, thoroughly combine the almonds, sugar and lemon zest. Set aside. Wash the potato well and microwave on high until soft (6 to 8 minutes). Remove the potato's skin and, in a large mixing bowl, mash until very smooth. Add the almond mixture to the potato in five parts, working it in vigorously with a wooden spoon or potato masher until you have a thick, coherent paste. Set aside. (If desired, you can refrigerate this mixture, wrapped well in plastic, for up to two days before baking.)

Once ready to make the cookies, place each topping ingredient in a separate bowl. Using your hands, roll the dough into smooth, 1-inch balls. Roll the balls thoroughly in the egg yolk and then in the desired topping, pressing the topping into the ball to ensure uniform coverage.

Place the balls on the baking sheet in batches, brush tops of pine nut balls with egg yolk if desired, and bake for 9 to 10 minutes. The balls should be soft on the inside with a touch of golden colour on the outside. Remove from oven and let cool on the baking sheet.

Makes 40 to 42 cookies.

In keeping with tradition, serve with a glass of chilled muscat wine.