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You won't find Montecucco listed in the voluminous, 900-page Oxford Companion to Wine. You may not find it by car should you blink or make one of those almost inevitable wrong turns along the undulating, pretzel-twist roads of southern Tuscany.

No matter. More important than the finding, in this case, is the tasting. One way to do that is by tilting back a glass of the highly underrated, little-known wine of the district. A fine example arrives in Ontario today through Vintages stores, Salustri Santa Marta Montecucco Single Vineyard Sangiovese 2005 ($40.95, product No. 74302).

Montecucco was circumscribed as an appellation just 10 years ago, sitting serenely in the shadow of Montalcino to the north, the much more famous zone responsible for one of Italy's collector-worthy reds, brunello. Like most of Tuscany, it's sangiovese territory. But unlike the bigger and better-known regional appellations that also include Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Montecucco is relatively unspoiled. Even during the summer it tends to be overlooked by American tourists seeking their inner Frances Mayes.

More conspicuous than Americans, in fact, are olive trees and long-legged white cattle called Chianina. When you order bistecca alla fiorentina, Tuscany's famous grilled T-bone delicacy, there's a good chance it came from one of these virile-looking beasts.

A keen palate can't help but pick up the similarity between the Salustri Santa Marta and good brunello, which is made from a particularly thick-skinned and tannic clone of the highly variable sangiovese grape known, appropriately enough, as the brunello clone. Full-bodied and mouth-filling, the Salustri is stuffed with notes of ripe plum, black cherry and spice, woven onto a frame of oak and astringent tannins. The purity and balance here are impressive. And while it's not cheap, it's significantly better than many brunellos costing $50 and $60, the entry-level price range for wines from that better-known appellation. It would pair splendidly with steak or a cheese course and could improve with at least three years of cellaring.

Should you want to make the comparison with a superb brunello and have the spare change to do it, consider Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($62.95, No. 994095; $63.99 in B.C.). From a big, warm summer growing season in Tuscany, this wine maintains its poise, with flavours of pure cherry, leather, tobacco and mushroom. Silky and opulent, it's ready to drink now and could age for a decade.

From the northern Veneto region comes a red, also from Vintages, at an amazing price-quality ratio, Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicalo Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006 ($18.95, No. 984997). I've mentioned this wine in years previous and it's hardly a secret. But this 2006 vintage is superb, made in the "baby Amarone" style. In this case, Tedeschi uses a variation of the style called appassimento breve, in which grapes are left out to dry for a month to achieve greater flavour concentration before they're pressed. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, the wine shows a creamy texture and notes of plum and cherry, with a zippy, peppery finish.

Another very good wine in a similar style is Bolla le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2005 ($19.95, No. 135293). Medium full-bodied, it's brimming with fresh, juicy cherry flavour and spice.

The best Amarone among several being released today in Ontario is Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 ($52.95, No. 413179), elegant and velvety, brimming with luscious chocolate, rich fruit and spices all in fine balance.

Pick of the week

Salustri Santa Marta Montecucco Single Vineyard Sangiovese 2005 ($40.95, product No. 74302).

Full-bodied, mouth-filling and stuffed with notes of ripe plum, black cherry and spice, woven onto a frame of oak and astringent tannins.