Downtown 'Deadmonton' no more

For years, only tumbleweeds stuck around Edmonton's central core after office hours. But the oil and gas boom has brought big bucks and a creative surge to the area — transforming 104 Street into a hub for locals serious about play

Katherine O'Neill

From Saturday's Globe and Mail

DEVINE WINES AND SPIRITS, 10111 AT JASPER AVENUE NW

This is the gathering spot for Edmonton's oenophiles — both established and aspiring.

In fact, this independent shop in the historic Birks Building often feels more like a welcoming (and unpretentious) club where customers and staff eagerly swap information about their favourite wines than a retail outfit.

That could be because the owners don't stock anything they either haven't tried or don't like. Dirk Chan, one of the store's partners, says Monday — the day they order new bottles — generally means vigorous debates about what should go and what should stay.

The payoff is something for everyone's budget, including a $1,200 Château Margaux 1983.

TZIN WINE & TAPAS , 10115 AT JASPER AVENUE NW

Associated with deVine (see above) — and located right next door — this is where young professionals and couples flock for wine and tapas after work, and on the weekends to unwind and reset. But be forewarned: This trendy salon is teeny-tiny (there are only about 25 seats).

In the summer, TZiN's street-front patio is the place to snag a spot. On Saturdays, this portion of 104 Street shuts down to traffic during the day and becomes a farmers market. When winter falls, the bar's black-and-red colour scheme, piles of pillows and candles help make this a snug, intimate place to hang out on long, cold nights.

C'EST SERA, 10125 BETWEEN JASPER AVENUE AND 102 STREET

Given its proximity to the city's office towers, it's no surprise that this unisex clothing store is swarmed at midday. But the customers aren't here just to kill their lunch hour.

C'est Sera, which operates two other stores in Edmonton, has a loyal following because of its reputation for carrying both the latest trends and must-have wardrobe staples. The well-tailored clothes, primarily from Canadian and European lines, are carefully selected by owner Kelly Kleiber.

The store also sells shoes and accessories — including an amazing wrap belt (shown above) that Kleiber designed. She had always wondered what could be done with that extra fabric at the end of a roll.

29 ARMSTRONG, 10129 BETWEEN JASPER AVENUE AND 102 STREET

The brainchild of two Edmonton-born jet setters — Amedeo Pagliuso, 29, and Bryan Humphrey, 31 — this is one of the newest kids on the block and one of the most provocative.

Drawn back home by the energy boom, the pair hope their "postmodern" furniture and lighting store will create a new market in the city for luxurious, often edgy, home furnishings. Their 3,000-square-foot showroom is purposely mismatched, with everything from a sleek, $7,000 tempered-glass table from Italy to antiques.

Since they opened last December, Pagliuso and Humphrey are also attracting crowds to events. For example, a show for Loyal Loot, an Edmonton industrial design collective that has been turning heads around the world.

THE BLUE PLATE DINER, 10145, BETWEEN JASPER AVENUE AND 102 STREET

Alberta's status as a beef headquarters hasn't deterred this retro diner (above) from perfecting one of the most sought-after vegetarian burgers in the province.

Blue Plate co-owner John Williams says the 75-seat restaurant spent about a year coming up with the recipe. "Potato flour," he whispers when asked to disclose the secret ingredient that helps make it so, so yummy. "It's the perfect binder."

Still, one of the most expensive items on the menu is a $26 steak sandwich. Which makes the menu as eclectic as the decor — mismatched, kitschy dishes, and lamps, tables and chairs you'd swear someone stole from your grandma's house. The clientele is also suitably diverse: Suits, artists and students.

THE SCROLL SHOP, 10137 BETWEEN JASPER AVENUE AND 102 STREET

Decorated to give off the vibe of an "old English pen shop" — chandeliers hang from a tin ceiling and there are original hardwood floors — this is the place for people in need of custom invitations.

For those passing through town, there are also beautiful writing instruments (shown below) and leather-bound journals. Or my favourite find: a selection of handmade paper, including historic maps of London and New York City.

And don't miss the large collection of greeting cards. The store has a hard time keeping several lines on the shelves, including the hilarious and well, mean, Mean Cards. "I wish you only the finest in life…/ I suggest you marry well," reads one.

RIC'S GRILL AND LOUNGE, 10190 AT 102 AVENUE

An upscale steakhouse chain with several locations across Alberta and B.C., Ric's (at right) opened in 2003, long before 104 was an up-and-coming strip.

One of the major draws was the digs. The Metals Building, a red-brick three-storey pile, dates to 1914. The former warehouse's original signage has been restored, and inside the restaurant, patrons often marvel at the raised ceilings and massive original wood beams and pillars. Try nabbing what some customers have dubbed "hot tub booths," large and very private U-shaped seats.

And if a red-meat fix isn't your thing? Order the black and blue ahi tuna, a crowd favourite.

Katherine O'Neill is The Globe's Edmonton correspondent.

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