CHRIS JOHNS
From Saturday's Globe and Mail Published on Saturday, Dec. 06, 2008 12:00AM EST Last updated on Tuesday, Mar. 31, 2009 9:22PM EDT
Forget swaying palms. Slope bunnies dream of snow ghosts, those pristine, snow-caked trees that lend ethereal beauty to the mountains — preferably as you whip past them on the way down a very long run.
But even chairlift diehards may be taking a second look at holiday budgets this season. And while resort officials in the northeastern United States insist that they draw tourists even in economic slumps — proximity to major cities and lower gas prices help — the big mountains out west are preparing for a downturn. Last month, Breton Murphy of Tourism Whistler told CBC that advance bookings at the resort's accommodations are down by around 12 per cent from last year.
The silver lining is that some resorts are offering discounts and package deals to lure skiers west. Beaver Creek Resort in Colorado is offering Epic passes, which offer unlimited access to six hills in the area, to anyone who signs up for the first leg of Technique Weeks — an all-inclusive program that includes five nights' lodging, four days of personalized instruction and four lift tickets for $3,800.
If spending that much on a week of skiing still feels steep, there is another option: Look beyond the big-name hills. While destinations such as Beaver Creek and Blackcomb get all the fanfare, less celebrated slopes offer many of the same amenities at reduced rates: Lift tickets are at least 10 per cent cheaper, you can generally get a central room for less and even notoriously expensive on-mountain meals can be a relative bargain.
Herewith, then, five budget alternatives for priceless moments in the mountains.
BUDGET BLACKCOMB: BIG WHITE
The hills When you've got two Olympian neighbours, you can sometimes be overlooked. But encompassing more than 1,100 hectares, Big White isn't exactly a shrinking violet. Easily reached from Kelowna, B.C., a one-hour drive away, this resort is built around Canada's largest ski-in, ski-out village and has the largest night skiing area in Western Canada. There's also a renowned Nordic centre here with 25 kilometres of trails.
Family factor You know a resort caters to kids when you see five-year-olds zipping around on toy-sized snowmobiles. There's also a tube ride, skating and daycare on site.
Après-ski Fuel up on cheap deli at Big White Market (www.bigwhitemarket.com). Or splurge on fondue for two at Chateau Big White ($49; www.swissbearbigwhite.ca). Once the kids are in bed, head to Snowshoe Sam's (www.snowshoesams.com) — a slow night here is generally more raucous than New Year's Eve anywhere else.
Bedding down You don't have to forgo location to get value here. The central Inn at Big White has rooms from $137 a night. Rooms with kitchenettes at the White Crystal Inn are $233 a night in high season. (Both inns can be reserved at 1-800-663-2772.)
Sweet deals WestJet has five-night, four-day packages — including airfare, accommodation and lift tickets — starting from $564 a person from Vancouver, $832 from Toronto and $1,000 from Halifax. For more information, visit www.bigwhite.com.
Bottom line You would be hard-pressed to find a hotel room at Blackcomb for less than $300; at Big White, you will be hard-pressed to find one that costs much more. As for the hills, lift tickets at Big White are about $20 cheaper than the ones at Blackcomb — plus you'll save time in the lineup. For more information, visit www.bigwhite.com.
BUDGET WHISTLER: SILVER STAR
The hills It's not connected to its neighbour by a vertiginous new gondola, but Silver Star is the Whistler to Big White's Blackcomb. Just a short drive outside Vernon, B.C., this is an affable, affordable mountain with a split personality: The Vance Creek slope is all about groomed corduroy and wide-open cruising runs; over on Putnam Creek, experts seek out steep chutes and dense glades. There is also a massive Olympic-size half-pipe.
Family factor Free fireworks, live music and a game night at the Nordic Alpine Training Centre in Kelowna that includes a big-screen version of Nintendo Wii are a good start. Then there's the giant one-hectare skating pond.
Après-ski Although it's best known for hot chocolate and apple strudel, Bugaboos Bakery in Vernon also does great sandwiches and even better sausage rolls (250-545-3208). And don't let the quaint Victorian theme of the village fool you: I've seen a man drink his body weight in Jager bombs here and the Vance Creek Saloon (250-503-1452) brings in DJs to spin when there isn't live music on the go.
Bedding down The newly renovated Vance Creek Lodge on the main street of Silver Star has suites with full kitchens starting at $108 (1-800-610-0805). For ski-in, ski-out convenience, the recently renovated Bulldog Hotel has clean, modern rooms from $99 a night (1-800-489-0599).
Sweet deals From March 13 to 28, select properties at Silver Star are offering one free children's pass for every adult lift ticket you buy (some maximums apply). For details, call 1-800-663-4431.
Bottom line Lift tickets are $71 year-round at Silver Star, a high of $89 at Whistler. A full-day private lesson for you and two friends is $409 at Silver Star — at Whistler, that would cost you $625. For more information, visit www.skisilverstar.com.
BUDGET BEAVER CREEK: WINTER PARK
The hills The flashier Colorado resorts may draw celebrities, but locals in the know ski here. The high altitude — nearly 2,750 metres — makes for particularly dry, fine snow, and in the past three years the resort has added three chairlifts as part of a $40-million makeover. This is also one of the few resorts with an economical train link.
Family factor Most kids spend the day at Groswold Discovery Park, a segregated area away from the main runs with forgiving terrain.
Après-ski Start your day with breakfast at The Mountain Rose (970-726-9940) — what they lack in speed, they make up for in portion size. And when you've skied that off, head to the Derailer Bar (970-726-5514). If you time your arrival right, you might be able to grab one of the coveted seats overlooking the slopes.
Bedding down Even if the logs used to build the lodge came from Canada, you can't get a more authentic Colorado experience than the Bear Paw Inn (rooms from $225; www.bearpaw-winterpark.com). Sleep by the ski hill for $214 a night at Zephyr Mountain Lodge (www.zephyrmountainlodge.com). The equivalent at the Westin in Beaver Creek averages $400.
Sweet deals This is "beginner's month" at Winter Park: Get $12 off 21/2-hour lessons until Dec. 19 (970-726-1564).
Bottom line Head here instead of Beaver Creek and you'll save nearly $70 on your ski shuttle, $50 on lift tickets and $18 on rentals. For more information, visit www.skiwinterpark.com.
BUDGET ASPEN: STEAMBOAT
The hills Located between Salt Lake City and Denver, Steamboat is known for its authenticity and grit. But thanks to $30-million in upgrades over the past few years, that doesn't mean a lack of amenities. There are 20 lifts and 142 trails here. Family factor Kids 12 and under ski free when their parents purchase a five-day pass.
Après-ski Once you've skied to the bottom, take the Steamboat gondola back up to the top for all-you-can eat barbecue and killer views of the Yampa Valley at sunset (970-871-5162). Another cheap option: The $7 pizza and $2 drafts during happy hour at Slopeside Grill (10 p.m. to midnight; www.slopesidegrill.com).
Bedding down Yes, there's construction going on next door to Snow Flower Condos. But the two-bedroom condos start at $214 (www.resortquestteamboat.com) and any mess nearby is a minor inconvenience when you're just 300 metres from the gondola and 10 minutes from the town of Steamboat Springs. Right in town, rooms at the classic Rabbit Ears Motel (www.rabbitearsmotel.com) start at $86. \
Sweet deals Steamboat is offering free lift tickets until Christmas Day if you book a three-night stay at a participating hotel (1-800-922-2722).
Bottom line You won't save much on an airport shuttle to Steamboat instead of Aspen. But lift tickets are about $25 cheaper and Canadians are eligible for 15 per cent off hard goods (read: ski gear) at Steamboat Ski & Sport Shops. For more information, visit www.steamboat.com.
BUDGET LAKE LOUISE: MOUNT NORQUAY
The hills This may not be the first mountain you think of when you think of Banff, but it is an important part of Canadian ski history.
The first runs were cut here in 1926, and in 1948 Norquay became the first ski hill in Western Canada to install a working chairlift. As the only hill offering skiing by the hour, this is a popular stop with locals during extended "coffee breaks."
Family factor Children 5 and under ski free with the purchase of an adult lift ticket.
Après-ski Stay on the hill and you'll spend about $15 on lunch. But head into Banff — only six kilometres away — and you can get a burger and fries for $10 at Melissa's Restaurant (www.melissasrestaurant.com). At night, the pretty people congregate at Aurora (www.aurorabanff.com). On Fridays before midnight, the cocktails are $3.50.
Bedding down The Red Carpet Inn (www.banffredcarpet.com) has rooms from $94, including breakfast and a balcony if you can snag one. Rooms at the Juniper Hotel & Bistro start at $135 (www.thejuniper.com) — a bit more, but the hotel is right at the base of Mount Norquay, with views of Lake Vermilion.
Sweet deals Norquay's $55 Big Drop Card includes three free lift tickets and 25 per cent off unlimited visits. For more information, visit www.banffnorquay.com.
Bottom line The little things add up: Ski here instead of Sunshine Village and you'll save $20 on lift tickets, $12 on daycare and $35 on your ski shuttle. For more information, visit www.banffnorquay.com.
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