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For me, the arrival of white asparagus at local markets is the first scent of spring.

At Splendido, from mid-May until the end of June (though Mother Nature is the ultimate arbiter of the season), we rise before dawn and make our way to the Ontario Food Terminal to secure the crème de la crème of white asparagus, grown by a farmer from Simcoe County. It's not an option to sleep in: This is a specialty so popular and here for such a short period of time that the best of it is sold out by 9 a.m.

White asparagus is unique both in flavour and method of production. While the asparagus grows, farmers earth up the beds to keep the vegetable completely covered. This prevents any contact with sunlight, which would trigger the process of photosynthesis, and thus stimulate the production of chlorophyll, the pigment that lends plant matter its characteristic green colour.

Some farmers are so obsessive about this that they spend their nights in the asparagus fields with flashlights, covering plants even as they break through the soil. Others, like Dave Cohlmeyer of Cookstown Greens, a farm in Cookstown, Ont., allow only the tips to break the earth, which gives us bi-coloured asparagus - white stalks and purplish-green tips.

While at the market, the best way to determine whether the asparagus is at its peak is to break one of the stalks and suck on the exposed flesh. If the asparagus is at all bitter, that flavour will translate to the finished product. White asparagus, at its finest, should be sweet and slightly nutty.

While I prefer to use larger stalks of white asparagus, the choice between thin or thick stalks is a matter of personal taste. The most important thing is to peel off any outer fibrous layers from the stalks before cooking. At the restaurant, I am so obsessive about this process that it's only myself or my sous-chefs who are entrusted with this task. (I also find peeling asparagus to be very therapeutic, a good way for me to relieve the stresses of the day.)

I generally poach asparagus in a mixture of water, butter, salt and sugar. The sugar serves to highlight the natural sweetness and contrast with the nutty flavour that makes white asparagus unique.

While I have paired white asparagus with lobster or truffles, a more simple dish learned during my apprenticeship in Europe remains my favourite way to eat this gift of spring: poached white asparagus with hollandaise sauce.

One of my beliefs as a chef is that one does not have to do much to a great product in order to serve it at its finest; the ingredient will speak for itself. The simplicity of the dish highlights the natural qualities of the asparagus, and the hollandaise accents the flavours of the asparagus perfectly.

Ontario's bounty of great growing regions and diligent farmers means that, as chefs, we have an incredible array of fresh, local produce to choose from. One doesn't need to look across the ocean to France's Loire Valley for great white asparagus.

POACHED WHITE ASPARAGUS WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

What you need

8 cups of water

8 tablespoons of white sugar

8 tablespoons of kosher salt

1/4 pound of butter

1 pound of white asparagus

What you do

Bring first four ingredients to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan. Reduce heat to gentle simmer.

Starting two inches from the tip of the asparagus and finishing two inches from the bottom, peel the outer fibrous skin from each stalk. Snap off the bottom ends of the stalks.

Place the asparagus in the saucepan, and cook gently (no bubbles) until the stalks can be easily pierced with the tip of a knife.

Once cooked, serve immediately (you can poach the asparagus ahead of time and reheat in the poaching liquid - if you are going to do this, undercook the asparagus slightly the first time).

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

What you need

3 egg yolks

1 tablespoon cold water

1 cup unsalted butter

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

Tabasco sauce

Worcestershire sauce

What you do

Place egg yolks and water in a bowl over a double boiler and whisk well with a wire whisk until light and frothy (the yolks will take on a much lighter colour as air is incorporated into them).

Put all but 2 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan over low heat until just melted.

Add 1 tablespoon of the cold butter to the egg and water mixture and place over hot, not boiling, water.

Whip constantly until the egg yolks start to thicken.

Remove from heat and whip in the second tablespoon of cold butter.

Gradually pour the melted butter into the egg mixture, beating constantly (if the mixture starts to go stodgy, place the bowl back on the heat briefly, whisking all the while).

Once all the butter has been incorporated, put the bowl back on the double boiler and cook until thickened, whisking constantly.

Hollandaise should hold like mayonnaise, but a little softer, when the whisk is drawn across the surface of the sauce.

Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice, salt and a dash each of Tabasco sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Spoon hollandaise sauce over poached white asparagus.

Serves 4.

David Lee is co-owner and execu-tive chef at Toronto's Splendido restaurant.

*****

Buying white asparagus

Look for unbroken stalks with uncracked bases.

The tips and stalks should be firm (not slimy).

The flesh should not yield when pressed.

The best way to determine whether or not the asparagus is at its peak is to break one of the stalks and suck on the exposed flesh; if the asparagus is at all bitter, that flavour will translate to the finished, cooked product.

David Lee

*****

Beppi's wine matches

If you've never served champagne with food, today's recipe is a great place to start. The delicacy and classic elegance of Chef Lee's dish makes for a dynamite match with France's regal sparkling wine. And because champagne is a friend to all foods, it will harmonize with whatever else is on your plate. For a more affordable option, try a lightly oaked chardonnay such as the excellent William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux from France ($20.30). It has the acidity to complement the asparagus and the body to support the rich sauce. Another good option would be sauvignon blanc, especially more subtle styles from France's Loire Valley that go by the names Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.

Beppi Crosariol