Beppi Crosariol

Summer whites for the barbie

BEPPI CROSARIOL

From Saturday's Globe and Mail

I promised, in a barbecue column a couple of weeks ago, to recommend some white wines for the grill. Admittedly, it's not a front-of-mind category with many Weber wizards out there. Grilling, to most Canadians, implies steak, burgers, hot dogs and chicken, in which case the wine choice is usually red.

Not in my world. I love grilling vegetables, fruit, fish, things like sardines, shrimp, eggplant, asparagus and goat-cheese pizza.

So, herewith some chillin' wines for grillin' times. And, just so 70 per cent of the Canadian population doesn't feel left out, I've included a few reds at the bottom.

Zesty sauvignon blanc is a fine match for everything from shrimp to lively salads and the aforementioned goat-cheese pizza. They don't come zestier or more consistently well-made than those from New Zealand. A fine example: Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($19.95, No. 734095), recently released through Ontario Vintages stores. This wine leads with its herbaceous side, hinting at wet grass and fresh pea, but there's good fruit flavour here in the form of gooseberry and citrus. Grilled asparagus would be flattered to make its acquaintance.

Wolf Blass Bilyara Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($13.95, No. 030809) has just been released in a full-size plastic bottle in Ontario, a follow-up (along with a merlot) to Wolf Blass's fine Bilyara Reserve chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, two wines launched last year in the same, innovative unbreakable bottles. This is a crowd-pleasing sauvignon blanc, rich, smooth and soft, yet fully dry and crisp. It would be nice with fish, even fatty salmon.

If you've ever been to the northwest coast of Spain, in Galicia above Portugal in the region that is home to the pilgrimage shrine of Santiago de Campostela, you may have sampled one of the world's best-kept wine secrets. It's Rias Baixas, a district that excels at a white wine based on the albarino grape. Martin Codax Albarino 2005 ($16.95, No. 984906) is one of the few wines from that region that makes its way to Canada from time to time. Light-bodied, it sports a silky, almost oily texture and flavours of lemon, honey and minerals. Perfect for fish, especially trout, shrimp and grilled sardines. It's available in Quebec for $17.10.

With tapas the current culinary rage, you'd think Canadians would have more of a thirst for dry sherry, the classic accompaniment to salty bar food in Spain. The best-known dry sherry, Gonzales Byass Tio Pepe Palomino Fino ($15.25, No. 242669), was recently dropped from the permanent general listings in Ontario, but it continues to be available through many Vintages stores.

It has the racy, nutty tang characteristic of all sherries, but it's totally dry and light, with a pronounced bitter edge. Chill it as you would any other white wine, and try serving it with salads, grilled shellfish or on its own as an aperitif.

Tio Pepe is available in Newfoundland and Labrador for $18.71; in Nova Scotia for $20.99; in Manitoba for $17.72; in B.C. for $18.99; and in other provinces too.

For dessert in the outdoors, there is no better wine than moscato d'Asti – the exceptionally light, spritzy white wine of Italy's Piedmont region, typically with alcohol of around 6 per cent. It is smashing with berries and invigorating on its own. A very good brand available in Ontario Vintages stores is Fontanafredda Moncucco Moscato d'Asti 2005 ($19.95, No. 673277), sweet and ripe but still enlivened by good acidity.

And now for those reds. On the lighter side, though clearly not in name, One Serious Pinot Noir 2004 from Australian producer Domain Day ($23.95, No. 024067) is a compelling expression of the pinot noir grape from a country that often falls short on that score. It's medium-bodied and juicy, with a fruit-forward flavour dominated by ripe cherry and raspberry. It's serious pinot for the patio.

If you know of any cricket players, consider taking the next wine to his or her dinner party. Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($24.95, No. 677476) is a handsomely packaged bottle, with a baseball-card-like label depicting a cricketer and a name that refers to a batting stroke. It's full-bodied, with almost-sweet ripe flavours of plum and raspberry, lifted by considerable spice and herbs.

Terras do Po 2005 ($14.95, No. 687020) is a steal from Portugal, made from the castelao grape, also known as periquita. Thoroughly modern, it's rich, velvety and smooth, with flavours hinting at red and dark berries and a luscious layer of vanilla. Also good from Portugal is Quinta do Vallado 2004 ($17.95, No. 694992), a nicely balanced red blend from the Douro region that's laced with nuances of earth, minerals and herbs.

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