'I could suggest something, but it wouldn't be honest," the server at Mangia e Bevi apologizes, when we ask about the antipasto selections.
As Philippe goes on to explain, it's his first day on the job. He has migrated from La Régalade, a fabulous French bistro located only a few doors away on Marine Drive in West Vancouver. We obviously won't hold his limited menu knowledge against him.
In fact, Philippe's attentive service is the highlight of an otherwise deeply disappointing evening. We appreciate his sincerity. We note how he promptly returns from the bar with wine descriptions. We recognize the concern in his eyes when unfinished plates are removed. We can almost feel the sweat on his brow as he hustles to please.
To be completely honest in return, I would like to make a suggestion: Philippe, go back to your old job. You deserve better than this.
Mangia e Bevi is the latest in a spate of Italian restaurants that have recently opened (La Buca) or will be opening soon (Italian Kitchen, the new offering on Alberni Street, from the owners of Glowbal, Coast and Sanafir; and Gianni Picchi's new establishment in West Vancouver's old Beach Side Café).
The 100-seat Mangia e Bevi is brought to you by Antonio Sauro and chef Robert Parrott, who both hail from the North Shore's popular Gusto Di Quattro, along with Mr. Sauro's brother-in-law, Doug Grisdale. This is their first independent outing.
The bold red line in the logo of the name is said to denote passion. But untamed passion, as we all know, can easily lead to disaster.
There's nothing particularly pleasant about this awkwardly designed, mustard-hued room to set the heart aflutter. It's an angular space divided into two rooms, with a partly open kitchen tucked in the back. We are seated at one of two lonely tables in the front foyer, which would much better suit a service station.
We pass on the Roma martini (vodka, Clamato and spice) and opt for a bottle of Chianti from a lengthy Italian wine list.
Again, we pass on the out-of-season Caprese di Buffalo Salad ($15 seems a stiff price to pay for hothouse tomatoes).
For appetizers, we opt for gritty clams and mussels ($15) in a not-so-spicy tarragon-prawn bisque and the daily special, scallops ($12) that appear to have been buried alive in champagne cream.
Cannelloni Zafferano ($19) is an interesting concoction of braised lamb with eggplant, goat cheese and thick lamb gravy. It tastes like a roast wrap. But at least the pasta is cooked, if not discernibly fresh.
Spaghetti Ai Calamari Piccanti ($18) arrives at the table so undercooked that it crunches.
Philippe whisks the offending plate away and asks the chef to give it a softening toss in the pan. The peas, unfortunately, have now turned to mush and the squid is close to rubbery.
"What did you think of the pasta?" he asks, stopping me on my way back from the washroom.
"Honestly," he says, probing almost desperately with his puppy-dog eyes.
Honestly? The sauce was fattened with too much paste for fish and the pancetta seemed an odd mix.
We give the kitchen one last shot with dessert. The lemon flan is puckeringly tart, with a pine-nut crust that's so dry it's almost woody. At least the cream isn't over-sweet.
We roll out into the night, our stomachs sagging with the weight of so many wasted carbohydrates. Philippe stares out the window forlornly.
I'm sorry. I know you tried.
Mangia e Bevi, 2222 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-922-4334 agill@globeandmail.com
