No jacket? No sweat

AMY VERNER

From Monday's Globe and Mail

Make no mistake, jackets are really, really important when it comes to work attire. They are the layer that confers the most polish and authority simply by creating a more structured silhouette than a shirt alone.

But in the summer months jackets can be hot, and we're referring to temperature, not Paris Hilton parlance.

Remove them and you risk some combination of creasing, perspiration or the exposure of chest hair and bra seams. Which begs the question, how do you stand proud in a button-down shirt without looking sloppy, sweaty or sleazy?

To begin, a shirt sans jacket should not be threadbare. If your favourite's been around the block, tough; get a new one. While you're at it, make sure it's 100 per cent cotton.

According to Damon Allan of Alexander Steel Image Consulting, polyester or any treatment that makes a shirt wrinkle-resistant might actually cause people to perspire more because the fabric is less breathable.

Which segues perfectly to undershirts. Mr. Allan says he's gradually encouraging his clients - men throughout southeastern Ontario - to phase out this layer.

While meant to add a barrier on the off chance that you break a sweat, undershirts can actually feel constricting. For Mr. Allan, the problem is not so much the nefarious nickname ("wife beater" does not exactly conjure up the corner office) but the undergarment's visibility. "When you see the white undershirt it throws off the look completely," he says.

And what about women and camisoles? Vancouver-based personal shopper and image consultant Diana Kruger doesn't think they're necessary if you choose a properly fitting, seamless bra.

The shirt should also have some oomph. "You can put on any little shirt and look acceptable and presentable. But when the jacket comes off, if the blouse looks ordinary, then of course your entire image looks ordinary," Ms. Kruger says.

Think a little ruffle detailing here, some snazzy buttons there. Even colourful stripes fit the bill.

As for flashing some skin, two buttons left open is universally sanctioned. She says three buttons is pushing it and best left to those "who [have] excellent posture and are exquisitely groomed."

On the male front, Mr. Allan says unbuttoning too far below the collar band may display a tuft of chest hair that can border on professional disrespect. Button-down collars stay more rigid, meaning the shirt looks less splayed when two buttons are left open.

All these variables are enough to make anyone break a sweat. What's worse, staying polished means resisting the temptation to roll up your sleeves.

As Ms. Kruger says, "The more skin we show, the more informal we appear."

Ultimately, a button-down is meant to stay buttoned up. Until happy hour.

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