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I first came to Canada from England in 1994, and was immediately struck by the difference in physical size between my country of birth and my newly adopted home.

Naturally curious to explore this massive land, I have tried to see as much of the country as possible since then. A few years ago, my wife Jennifer, my daughter Devon and I took a trip to the Maritimes, a region known the world over for its bountiful seafood. We visited Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick, but it was in Nova Scotia where the diversity and possibility of the country's sea and land struck home.

Enjoying some delectable, locally caught lobster at a typical East Coast seafood shack, I overheard a fisherman talking to a fish supplier in Toronto. He was trying to sell a 400-kilogram bluefin tuna he had caught, and not without some difficulty. (The reason for this continues to escape me – who wouldn't want access to such a wonderful fish?) I was immediately excited at the prospect of being able to showcase the fish this man had pulled from the ocean. After buying my new friend a few pints, I was able to convince him to call one of our restaurant's fish purveyors. The chefs at Splendido were a little surprised and quite pleased when 20 kilos of the finest bluefin tuna they had ever seen showed up at the back door of the restaurant a few days later (and all for the price of a few beers).

“What a country,” I remember thinking; growing up in England, my experience of locally caught seafood was hake or haddock at the local fish ‘n' chip shop. Yet here I was with access to beautiful bluefin tuna at the local lobster shack. I knew then I had come to the right country in which to cook (a feeling reinforced by a half-ton fish).

Bluefin tuna is a unique and very important seafood. Though it sold for less than $0.05 a pound barely 35 years ago, it is now highly prized in a variety of cultures and provides most of the tuna used in sushi. (One fish at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo sold for $180,000 – one fish!) This largest of the tuna species can reach lengths of up to 10 feet and weights of up to 1,500 pounds. The larger the fish, the higher the fat content and the more valuable it becomes. Bluefin are a highly migratory species, with habitats ranging from Norway to West Africa in the eastern Atlantic and from Newfoundland to Brazil in the western Atlantic. They have been known to cross the Atlantic in as little as 60 days.

When purchasing bluefin tuna – the season starts soon, at the beginning of July – there are a few points to consider. Always ask for centre cuts from the loin (though the highly sought-after belly fat from bluefin, known to fans of Japanese gastronomy as toro, is a luxurious example of how great this fish can be, it is very expensive and quite hard to find). When checking a piece of tuna for quality, rub your fingertips over the meat; your fingers should come away oily. The fish should smell clean and fresh, and the flesh should be shiny and clear (not muddy looking or bruised). A friendly relationship with your local fishmonger may also help you get access to higher quality fish.

When preparing and cooking bluefin tuna, I believe that less is more; it should be lightly cooked at most or enjoyed raw. One of my favourite summer dishes, tuna tartare with ratatouille, highlights the natural flavour and texture of bluefin tuna, while reinforcing its freshness and vitality.

NOVA SCOTIA BLUEFIN TUNA TARTARE WITH FARMERS' MARKET RATATOUILLE WHAT YOU NEED

12 oz centre cut bluefin tuna (the best you can find), diced

1 zucchini, diced

1 eggplant, diced

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 clove of garlic, minced

1 red and yellow pepper, charred, peeled and diced

3 ripe tomatoes, diced

Small bunch finely chopped basil

Small handful chervil, finely chopped

WHAT YOU DO

Sauté eggplant and zucchini in a healthy amount of olive oil over medium-high heat; season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add tomatoes and cook for five minutes; remove from heat and fold in basil. Transfer to bowl and let cool in fridge. Adjust seasoning as needed.

Using a round, 10-centimetre cookie cutter as a mould, spoon in the chilled ratatouille and lightly tamp down until flat (do not press too hard, as you will cause oil to run over the plate.) Do not remove the mould yet.

Season the tuna with salt and pepper, a touch of olive oil and the chopped chervil.

Using your mould, cover the ratatouille with the tuna mixture.

Finish the dish with torn pieces of fresh basil, a drizzle of high-quality extra virgin olive oil and, if you'd like, a good aged balsamic vinegar.

Serves 4.

David Lee is co-owner and executive chef at Toronto's Splendido restaurant.