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As the temperature drops, the battle for winter pint supremacy heats up.

This winter, a number of Ontario brewers have released limited-edition seasonal beers that aim to fill the void between sophisticated single-malt whiskies and childish hot chocolates.

"This year, there has been more to grab," says Peter Bulut Jr., vice-president of Great Lakes Brewery, which released its own Winter Ale for the first time in December. The first run of 1,200 bottles sold out in just two weeks.

A great winter brew boasts "richness, flavourings and alcohol," Bulut says. "You want it to be a little bit higher in alcohol to make it a true winter warmer -- to give you that warm, fuzzy feeling. It's not a two-four kind of beer. You enjoy a chilled glass or two with friends." (Indeed, most winter beers come in above 6 per cent.) Orange and other citrus flavours are popular; Winter Ale also includes cinnamon, honey, ginger and orange peel. "To me, those are nice winter ingredients," Bulut says.

And while the festive season -- always a time for special drinks -- has passed, many brewers are stocking up for the rest of winter (Great Lakes Brewery, for example, should have another batch ready next week).

"It doesn't end at Christmas," Bulut says. "Winter beers flow up until spring. They're meant to be enjoyed throughout the winter months."

Globe Style sampled a variety of Ontario winter beers. Here are our top five. All are available at the brewery; some are available at select LCBO stores. Check with the brewery for details.

Holiday Honey

Old Credit Brewing Co. Ltd.

6 Queen St. W., Port Credit, Ont., 905-271-9888

$3 for a 680-millilitre bottle

T hey say: Holiday Honey won a silver medal at the 2006 Canadian Brewing Awards. The beer is aged for three months.

We say: The honey flavour in this beer is surprisingly subtle: It's smooth and light ("not syrupy like most honey beers"), but might disappoint real honey fans. It is beautiful in appearance ("nice, rich colour"), slightly nutty and not too sweet.

Serve with: Savoury appetizers.

Winter Ale

Great Lakes Brewery

30 Queen Elizabeth Blvd., Etobicoke, Ont., 416-255-4510.

$6.95 for a 750-millilitre bottle

They say: This 6.2 per cent "winter warmer" is handcrafted with specialty hops, five varieties of malts, plus lots of cinnamon, honey, ginger and orange peel.

We say: Winter Ale impresses off the top with its strong, painted graphics and festive cork. The dark beer boasts strong cinnamon flavours and a nice head, and goes down smooth. It really got our testers into the winter spirit: They called it "a good fireside beer" that would be perfect "post-tobogganing."

Serve with: Gingerbread or fresh-out-of-the-oven brownies.

Big Dog Porter

Neustadt Springs Brewery

456 Jacob St., Neustadt, Ont., 519-799-5790

$11.95 for six 341-millilitre bottles

They say: This old-fashioned English porter (free of preservatives and additives) is sweetened with a bit of Beaujolais wine.

We say: This clean, crisp beer has strong coffee flavours off the top, some nuttiness, and a long, cold finish. To use a winter analogy: "It's like a toboggan ride with a surprisingly long run out . . . like skidding along a perfectly placed driveway."

Serve with: Sweet desserts.

Celebration Ale

Trafalgar Brewing Company

1156 Speers Rd., Oakville, Ont., 905-337-0133

$19 for six 650-millilitre bottles

They say: The Belgian-style ale is "rich and spicy with strong citrus notes and complex flavours."

We say: Testers called Celebration Ale dark and smooth, comparing it to UrBock from Creemore Springs Brewery, one of the most popular winter beers (see next review). Flavour-wise, it was sweet and very citrusy.

Serve with: Dark chocolate.

UrBock

Creemore Springs Brewery

139 Mill St., Creemore, Ont., 1-800-267-2240

$12.25 for six 341-millilitre bottles

They say: Creemore calls this a "festive" beer brewed in the bock tradition of the Middle Ages, which saw the best crops made into drink for the noble class.

We say: This heavy, dark beer is definitely not for summer sipping. It has a "sweet malty flavour and a satisfying, strong aftertaste that sticks to your tongue."

Serve with: Swiss cheeses, such as Gruyère.