Vikram Vij: Market-fresh ingredients make the meal

In spite of all the convenience foods available to us, nothing beats cooking a dish from scratch at home with family and friends

VIKRAM VIJ

VANCOUVER From Wednesday's Globe and Mail

My wife and I have been having these discussions over how big our home kitchen should be. I want a full-sized kitchen with all the tools. She does not want a restaurant-style kitchen. As long as it remains functional and not just pretty, we will both have to compromise.

It's an important conversation, though. The medicinal value of many Indian spices has been long established, and we know that yoga is good for the soul. But while its therapeutic value may not be a scientifically proven fact, cooking at home with family and friends using market-fresh ingredients is also a great form of relaxation.

During my childhood in India, my grandparents would take me to the temple in the morning and then we would go to the sabzi mandi - our version of the farmers' market - to buy fresh produce for a day or two. This was a routine we followed at least three times a week.

I would love walking through the market while my grandparents haggled with the vendors over a few cents.

Back at the house, we would have help in the kitchen for the cutting and chopping, but family members would do all the cooking, including the careful adding of spices.

In spite of all the conveniences we have in Canada, this is the way most immigrants still prepare food almost every day at home.

Their Canadian-born children, on the other hand, have begun to look for time-saving shortcuts such as premade chapatis and paneer, as well as masala mixtures.

The idea of making the meals from start to finish may be too demanding for some working people. So it's important to find a good balance and not give up on cooking in our kitchens. It can still be fun and dramatic.

This coconut curried vegetable recipe is very simple, and all the ingredients are easily available. A little chutney is a great complement to the dish.

Coconut Curried Vegetables

What you need

½ cup canola oil

25 to 30 fresh curry leaves

1 tablespoon black mustard seeds

1½ cups finely chopped onions (2 medium)

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chopped garlic

2 cups chopped tomatoes (2 large)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 12-ounce can coconut milk, stirred

1 pound eggplant, in 1½-inch cubes

1 pound cauliflower, in 1½-inch florets

¾ pound red, green and/or yellow bell peppers, in 1½-inch cubes

¾ cup chopped cilantro

3 to 4 cups cooked basmati rice

What you do

In a large pot, heat oil on medium heat for one minute. Keeping your head at a distance from the pot, add curry leaves and mustard seeds and allow them to sizzle for about one minute or until a few seeds pop. (The curry leaves will cook and shrivel.)

Immediately add onions and sauté until golden brown, about eight minutes. Add garlic and sauté for two minutes.

Add tomatoes, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, salt and black pepper. Sauté the masala for five to eight minutes or until the oil glistens on top.

Stir in coconut milk. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium-low. Add eggplant, cover and simmer for five minutes. Add cauliflower and bell peppers, cover and cook for five minutes more. Stir in cilantro.

To serve, place half a cup of hot rice in each of six to eight large bowls. Ladle curry over the rice.

Serves 6 to 8.

*****

Beppi's wine matches

Fruity, aromatic, plump whites work best with this rich, pungent dish. Look for wines based on such grapes as viognier, muscat, chenin blanc or torrontes.

Conundrum from California, a unique blend of five grape varieties, is widely available across Canada ($28 in Ontario and Quebec; $34 in British Columbia and Alberta). Also from California: Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois (about $19), an unusual blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc. From Niagara, there's the excellent Hillebrand Estates Trius White ($19).

In the best-buy category, don't miss Alta Vista Premium Torrontes from Argentina ($13, to be released in Ontario this Saturday).

Jammy, full-bodied reds can work too, including an Aussie shiraz such as De Bortoli Deen Vat 8 Shiraz ($15) or a California zinfandel such as Artezin Zinfandel ($25 in British Columbia and Alberta).

Beppi Crosariol

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