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THE OSWEGO HOTEL

500 Oswego St., Victoria, V8V 5C1; http://www.oswegovictoria.com; 1-877-7OSWEGO (767-9346)

ROOM RATES

Summer studio suites from $220, one bedroom from $300, and two bedrooms from $380

I would stay at the Oswego Hotel again. I would even make a reservation with enthusiasm, which is a strange thing to write after a first visit to the boutique hotel, newly opened in Victoria's pleasant James Bay neighbourhood.

At first glance, the 10-storey building looks like the kind of condo that draws swooning lineups of would-be buyers, eager for a place in its slick, composed lines.

Yet, on our visit, the Oswego wasn't yet a fully realized hotel but rather a work-in-progress.

We arrived just ahead of the staff because they had just been hired.

There were no curtains in the living room - which was a plus, in a way: Without curtains, it was easier to see the Olympic Mountains across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Brown sheets of paper had been taped over the bedroom windows in place of drapes or blinds. And on our floor, each room still had a floor plan taped on the wall outside.

The underground parking lot was filled with dozens of unpacked boxes of furniture.

Luckily, the enthusiastic staff took the edge off things by being honest about the improvised state of affairs. Also, this is a hotel with a lot of promise.

LOCATION The Oswego is a five-minute walk to the B.C. legislature, which may make it a popular home away from home for members of the assembly or civil servants on temporary assignments. But the location is also a plus for non-political visitors because it's easy to get to some of the most popular things to do in central Victoria.

AMBIENCE The lobby is busy but it never feels crowded. The modest front desk closely orbits the tables and chairs of a pleasant dining area, which is not far from the well-stocked bar. On our visit, the bar's counter did double duty at breakfast and dinner. It adds up to many roles for one space, but it has all been shrewdly designed to avoid clutter. There is an impressive yet casual dignity to the lobby, created in part by the exposed stone walls and dark wood floors.

CLIENTELE It seemed to be a mix of older and middle-aged visitors with twentysomethings taking advantage of the low prices of a get-acquainted deal.

ROOMS Comfortable for an overnight stay, but also designed to be memorable for a longer stay. There was an emphasis on subtle, functional luxury in the plus-sized bathroom, with its generous counter area, a tub and a glassed-in shower. You could also get used to the luxury of the flat-screen TVs in both the living room and the bedroom - though despite the efforts of an earnest staffer, one of them never did work very well.

SERVICE Points for cheer and enthusiasm. More points for patience while dealing with the various glitches of a hotel that really should have turned away visitors for a few more days until all was securely in place.

FOOD AND DRINK Promotional material for the Oswego promised a "unique tapas menu" with such dishes as salmon with caramelized ginger and spicy Napa cabbage. But on our visit, the menu was a bit more basic - though, to be fair, satisfying. Breakfast was a continental buffet of croissants, muffins and tea. Dinner included slices of ham, cheddar cheese, garlic bread and chips. There are other restaurants within walking distance.

THINGS TO DO

The Oswego is a terrific base for exploring the best tourist sites of downtown Victoria.

The B.C. legislature is nearby and well worth a look. It's quiet through to the new session in October, but tours are available.

Go south a few blocks and there's Emily Carr House, the original home of the painter, who was born there in 1871. The house now stands as a vivid, intimate museum that depicts various aspects of Carr's life and art.

Go north and there are the varied shops of Government Street, just past the Empress Hotel. Don't leave town without visiting Munro's Books, arguably one of Canada's most charming bookstores. There are thousands of titles in a memorable setting: a 1900-era Royal Bank of Canada branch. The store's current incarnation continues a bookselling tradition launched in 1963 by Jim Munro and his then wife, Alice - "yes, that Alice Munro," says the store's website.

A bit farther north to 28 Bastian Square and there's the Maritime Museum of B.C., housed in an 1880s-era former provincial courthouse.

Hotel vitals

TOP DRAWS

The Owego is an attractive building with stylish, well-equipped rooms, and the lobby is a relaxing place to start the day or finish it. This will be an especially comfortable place for medium to long stays.

NEEDS WORK

The workout room seemed a bit sparse. The bikes, elliptical trainer and other items seemed a bit rickety and shaky, but maybe that is just a sign that I need to lose weight and spend more time in exercise rooms.