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HAYMARKET HOTEL

1 Suffolk Place, London;

44 (20) 7470-4000; http://www.firmdale.com

Room rates

There are 50 rooms and suites, starting at about $518, breakfast not included.

Just when you think Tim and Kit Kemp might take a break from expanding their fast-growing hotel empire, they open another property. And just when you think their tried and tested formula might get a bit dull, Kit turns around and surprises you with a whopping great design concept that is a joy to behold. The Haymarket Hotel, the latest jewel in the Firmdale crown, follows hot on the heels of the Soho Hotel, which opened two years ago to great fanfare. It's colourful, chic and totally one of a kind, just the way we like it.

LOCATION The Haymarket is in the centre of the theatre district and a five-minute amble to Trafalgar Square (where you should avoid feeding the pigeons). Piccadilly Circus is right up the street, and the Thames and its various bridges are also a short distance away. In other words, you don't get more central than this. While Haymarket, the street, is somewhat noisy and traffic-heavy, the hotel manages to drown all the kerfuffle and create a tranquil vibe.

DESIGN The Regency building was designed by John Nash, the same chap who cobbled together the most famous castle in the land - Buckingham Palace. The lobby is an explosion of Kit Kemp's trademark colours - hot pinks, bright blues and yellows all clash yet work together in a large, airy space with a stainless steel sculpture by Tony Cragg and paintings by John Virtue. As always, Kemp's maximalism somehow looks elegant with the specially commissioned wallpapers and handmade furniture. Haymarket is also the only Firmdale hotel with a pool - and this one has sparkly "star" lights on the ceiling as well as a fully stocked bar.

ROOMS There are 50 rooms and suites and they are all generously sized with big bathrooms (and Miller Harris products), flat-screen televisions, Internet access and colourful and stylish interiors. Firmdale hotels are known for their comfortable beds, and these maintain that standard. The exclusive five-bedroom townhouse is utterly spectacular and is perfect for families who can afford it.

SERVICE Like most of the people working in London hotels, the staff is largely made up of friendly and knowledgeable Antipodeans, South Africans and Poles.

CLIENTELE Diplomats, theatre nuts, weekenders from other parts of the U.K. and families coming to stay for the whole summer.

AMBIENCE The outside of the hotel is deceivingly reserved, while the interior decor is quirky, cool and sophisticated, like London itself. Guests are from far and wide, so fellow travellers are a good international mix.

FOOD AND DRINK Brumus, the in-house restaurant, has been lauded as one of the best eateries in the Firmdale group of hotels. Breakfast is either continental or cooked and is as good (and expensive) as any breakfast in any hotel in London. At lunch and dinner, however, chef Roger Sergent really shines with his northern Italian cuisine.

THINGS TO DO Aside from catching all the great theatre nearby, the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery are on Trafalgar Square, a five-minute walk away.

If you don't mind wandering slightly farther afield, take a walk across Waterloo Bridge (it offers the best - and free - views of London at night) and head straight to the newly refurbished Southbank Centre. St James's Park and Buckingham Palace are a short stroll away, as is the Institute of Contemporary Arts, which shows films, holds gigs and exhibits. Nearby Covent Garden is great for opera and shopping.

BOTTOM LINE Chic Haymarket is perfect for those who want to be right in the centre of the tourist action, but don't want to stay in a generic, minimalist hotel.

*****

Hotel vitals

TOP DRAWS

The design, restaurant and pool.

NEEDS WORK

They can't change the location but it may be too hectic for some.