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DYLAN HOTEL DUBLIN

Eastmoreland Place, Dublin;

353 1 6603000; http://www.dylan.ie

ROOMS AND RATES

Starting at $345, breakfast not included.

Once the poorest city in Europe, these days Ireland's capital oozes luxury, decadence and heavy-duty construction. Cranes and jackhammers pepper the streets, upscale restaurants sprout on every corner, and pubs are filled with the suit and casual crowds clinking pints of Guinness. Considered the most expensive destination in the European Union, Dublin is chockablock with posh hotels. The Dylan Dublin, which opened in January, was formally the more budget-friendly Hibernian Hotel, which was constructed in 1901 as a nurses' home for the Royal City of Dublin Hospital.

LOCATION The site, a small diversion from the downtown core off Baggot Street, is a vibrant area dotted with corporate firms, bars, cafés and the Southside area's nouveau riche. Definitely a cab ride from such landmarks as the Temple Bar club district and the Liffey River, it's walking distance from the lush and sparse St. Stephen's Green, historic Trinity College and Grafton Street shopping district. The hotel is easy to find - going East on Baggot Street from the Green leads right to Eastmoreland Place.

AMBIENCE The lobby features a corset-horned leather seat, and there are Beetle Juice-style chairs throughout the four floors. Staff appear prêt à porter with uniforms created by chic Dublin fashion designer Leigh Tucker. The halls are dark but colourful, and the building emits an Old World charm with the many chunky candles lighting the entrance. There are only 44 rooms, each with distinct colour patterns and furniture, vintage silver, crystal and Belleek pottery. The library is a relaxed meeting place for the jet set.

ROOMS The rooms are small but well-designed, so guests should never feel cramped. The beds are the real attraction (some have ceiling mirrors), with plush, 330-thread-count Frette linens and memory-foam mattresses. Flat-screen TVs can be found in every room, including the shower - complete with a waterproof remote. All the bathrooms have heated floors and toasty towel warmer racks. There's a wall outlet outfitted for North American electronics, as well as free Wi-Fi. But the evening fun begins at the mini-bar, and it's not just with the bubbly: Inside is a disposable camera, eye mask, kits with lubricant and condoms, massage oils, honey dust and feathers. The only stumble is the in-suite phone, a horn-style cordless device that's difficult to use.

SERVICE Staff are ready to help at a moment's notice. Food service runs 24 hours and accommodates most requests. Ireland's service industry is dominated by Eastern Europeans, and all are friendly and courteous. The Dylan also provides such out-of-the-box offerings as "his bath," with a choice of Midleton Very Rare whisky or Baron Patrick brandy, and "her bath" consisting of champagne, strawberries and rose petals. Jet-lagged travellers can kick up their slippers to a movie menu with popcorn, soft drinks and Häagen-Dazs.

FOOD AND DRINK Breakfast is a small continental buffet with cereals, pastries, fresh fruit and juices. Dinner at the downstairs Still Restaurant, however, is a sensory delight with contemporary twists on traditional Irish dishes. Profiled are local game meats, oysters and French-inspired desserts. The wine list has more than 230 varieties. The adjacent Dylan Bar, with its double-sided, mirrored fireplace is a hot spot for tourists and Dubliners alike, and includes a terrace for outdoor martini schmoozing.

BOTTOM LINE This beautiful hotel is worth the trip for its striking design and above-par amenities. If visiting Dublin without a strict budget, opt for the Dylan over other hotels snaking the Liffey.

Hotel vitals

Top draws

The look, amenities, location and lounge.

Needs work

The in-suite telephone.