News

Black tie on an invite is long-versus-short agony for most ladies, plus a commitment to hours at the hairdresser's. For gentlemen – because any man in a bow tie is automatically a gentleman, especially if he has learned to tie the darned thing himself – donning a tux is a pledge to tie one on, and a promise your head's gonna be a-hurtin' in the morning.

The Royal Agricultural Winter Fair has long been the traditional start to the Canadian social season, beginning in 1922 when the country's old guard, the Eatons, Westons and McCutcheons, took to their ringside boxes in formal wear for 10 days of ball gowns and manure.

The frenzy of the Toronto International Film Festival has supplanted the genteel prized heifer and show-jumping festival, but as the great-grandchildren of the fair's founders head to the Horse Palace, it falls to them to bring back formal elegance to a country invaded by tawdry Hollywood sizzle. The presence of stars of the Toronto social scene, such as the svelte Alexandra Weston in Olivier Theyskens presenting the Weston Cup, are signs that the fair (which began last night and continues to Nov. 11) has become a fashion happening once again. And a harbinger of long gowns on the gala circuit.

“I love the pomp and circumstance,” says Toronto's Cawthra Burns, a member of the Royal ring committee (the women who, in heels and gowns, brave skittery Hackney ponies to present ribbons). “I need 10 full-length gowns a year for the fair,” says Burns, who shows her own horse there. “I shop all year. There is nothing more fun than dressing up. But you have to go to small stores. There is, of course, nothing worse than showing up in the same gown as someone else!”

Burns adds that she has started to see long gowns at other formal events she attends through the year, particularly the Innovators' Ball for the Ontario Science Centre.

Particular to the Royal, of course, is the sight of couture set against rough-and-tumble Argentine cowhands and lactating sows. One of the things that adds to the grandeur of proceedings is seeing long green ruffled organza gowns being dragged through a muddy practice ring after a bolting horse.

The see-and-be-scene element of the fair is shown, literally, on what insiders call Peacock Walk, says Bill Duron, chief executive officer of the Royal. From the early days, “the swells would stroll around the ring showing off their

finery and checking out everyone else's dresses in the boxes.” (The Royal follows the European standard of black tie for box holders.) Men in boxes generally observe the black-tie imperative, says John Dunlap, a real-estate agent who is chair of the horse show and a great-grandchild of one of the show's founders. He has actively been promoting the fair as a social event among his thirtysomething demographic beyond the horsey set.

“Black tie is itself a huge draw,” he says. “Everyone loves to play real dress-up. It's like the Oscars for normal people.”

And it's a lot of fun, says Marc Belcourt, brand manager for BMW Mini and another new generation horse family enthusiast. “This is the best-kept party in the city. There are a half-dozen bars all over the fair. You can go for a formal dinner, and then go to the cowboy bar. Or the Tanbark Club.” The black-tie-only club is now nearer the hitching ring for maximum contrast between white-tie tails and horse tails (though actually only the ring committee wears white tie).

You used to see some hand-me-down tuxes and bridesmaid dresses, says Brian O'Leary of Polo Management. “But it definitely seems more couture these days.”

Yes, this is the place you will see some real family jewels teetering around in stilettos.

And as long gowns are making a surge back into fashion for the first time since the Halston 1970s, it looks like grownups are going to get to play dress-up all winter. As much as we love to see what Reese Witherspoon wears on the red carpet, it is sweet to see Canadians turning to tradition for sartorial inspiration.

Black tie tips for the ladies...

Length matters

White tie and black tie both call for a long gown, but cocktail length is acceptable if you pump up the volume, says Christina McDowell, image stylist and national spokeswoman for Holt Renfrew. If you go long, keep it sleek and chic. If you go cocktail, make it special. “Here is where you use colour, silk satins, velvets, beading, sequins, embellishment and fur trim.”

Well-heeled

Look for embellishments, from peacock feather Manolo Blahniks to rhinestones and beaded satins.

Gloves

This is a huge glove year. Go for drama with a three-quarter length. Pick a bold colour in satin or leather.

Wraps

The modern thing is the old-fashioned thing: Twenties-style stoles and short fur jackets are everywhere. If fur makes you uncomfortable, try vintage.

Jewellery

Go big, baby. If you inherited it, this is the year to wear it. But rhinestone cuffs and showstopper costume earrings are always fine.

...and the gentleman

Own, don't rent

Buy your own tux. You can get

a starter set-up from $775, says Craig Dellio, owner of Perry's

Colonnade in Toronto, a formal-wear standby. At the top of the market, custom tuxes run about $2,000.

DIY

Learn to tie your own bow tie.

Period. And skip the novelty prints. A dark brown or a subtle textured pattern on black is fine.

Go simple

The most modern look is a

single-button, peau de soie notched lapel tux.

Or not

Then again, if you are a dandy

on the scene, and have need of more than one black-tie getup, there are beauties out there.

Brocades, velvets and tails look fabulous – on the right man.

“I love the Cary Grant white dinner jacket look. But it takes personality to carry it off,” says Christina McDowell, image stylist for Holt Renfrew.

No wingtip collars

The look is totally over and has been for three years. And it makes many men “of a certain age” look extra jowly.

Leanne Delap