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With only one car on the island, the pace of life was never going to be fast. So when my guide suggested that we take a mule instead of walking down the beach from Shela Village, there didn't seem much point: Laden down with goods, they weren't going much quicker than we were.

Not even a thousand years at the crossroads of an international trade route has given Lamu, off Kenya's northeast coast, much sense of urgency. But it has left a rich blend of east African Swahili, Indian, Omani, Yemeni and some Portuguese influences.

Lamu Town has been recognized by UNESCO as the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in east Africa.

Unlike the more commercial Mombasa coast to the south, there are no big five-star all-inclusive complexes or large groups of tourists on Lamu. The more upscale accommodation is mainly concentrated in Shela, and ranges from guest houses reminiscent of Arabian palaces to beautifully restored whitewashed houses to resorts consisting of beach huts known locally as bandas.

Shela Village is less than an hour's stroll from Lamu Town, but is very different. The only thing you're dodging down the narrow lanes are donkeys and barefooted kids. It's a hippie haven that has had an injection of glamour recently, thanks to the likes of Princess Caroline of Monaco and possibly Ronnie Wood and Robin Williams.

There's a relatively small selection of restaurants to choose from, such as Peponi's and Petley's Hotel in Lamu Town. Or, like me, you can stay at the Banana Penthouse and have the resident chef cook up a meal, served on the veranda.

The island is surrounded by mangrove wetlands that are home to an abundance of enormous crabs and lobsters. Yellow-fin tuna, kingfish and marlin are also plentiful, as well as lesser-known dorado and wahoo when in season.

I placed my order early, as instructed, so supplies could be bought from the local fisherman, and was served up a feast of crab with a spinach, tomato and onion salad.

It's an unnecessary effort to be active in Shela, but it's even harder farther around the island at Kizingo, the self-styled “no news, no shoes” beach resort. Six bandas are strategically positioned in the dunes for privacy.

I was lulled to sleep by the lapping of the sea and, without the 5 a.m. wake-up call of muezzin cries and braying donkeys you get in Shela, I even managed to sleep in.

There's a small shop at Kizingo where you can buy locally made leather sandals, accessories and wooden carvings. But if you want more variety, save your money for Lamu Town, where you can barter to your heart's delight in the numerous silversmiths, tailors and furniture stores.

Just remember when you're deliberating over that intricately carved headboard that the poor porters have to lug your heavily loaded suitcase across hot sand to the boat on your departure.

Guardian News Service