It was while exploring Inishbofin's northeastern coast that it first dawned on me precisely how small and sparsely populated an island I was visiting. Gazing out upon the water, lazily scanning the waves for the sight of a breaching whale or local fishing boat, I noticed instead a local Labrador retriever, apparently anxious for some company on his solo stroll. For the next half-hour, dog adopted human and together we covered the coastal trail of this west Ireland isle, a temporary pair pieced together purely by the lack of other beings in the area.
And then I had a second thought: What a curious place this is for a luxury resort and spa. Which is true, or rather would be, if Inishbofin House was a typical luxury resort and spa. But brothers Brendan and Brian Day, who own the recently opened resort (as they did the B&B that stood in its place until a year or two ago), evidently designed their hotel with one eye on luxury and the other on the island's natural allure.
The result is the creation of a singular oasis that is paradoxically as much in harmony with its surroundings as it is atypical for the island.
Ambience
Where most resorts must work hard to construct a setting that encourages the release of tension, Inishbofin House has a natural advantage. The tiny island's mellow pace and friendly atmosphere embody the sort of Irish charm and conviviality that are almost cliché and bring about near instantaneous relaxation. Within minutes of disembarking from the half-hour ferry ride that brought me and 20 other souls to the island, I felt a tremendous sense of peace. By sunset, I had achieved absolute serenity.
Clientele
Although billed as "an oasis of modern luxury," Inishbofin House is hardly an elitist retreat. Its modest prices make it broadly accessible for travellers seeking a one- or two-night respite from the rigours of the road or residents of nearby Galway seeking a mid-week or weekend escape.
Rooms
To achieve harmony with the rustic, rocky terrain of its home base while still affording guests a measure of luxury, the Days designed Inishbofin House in a minimalist style, with warm, pale-hued woods, large windows and skylights.
Unlike the twee bric-a-brac found in most rural Irish stays, the rooms here are bereft of fussy antiques and decorated in a gentle colour scheme. Their centrepiece is a luxurious queen bed kitted up with Egyptian cotton linens and a thick down duvet.
Frills are few, however. A single telephone and a clock radio are about the only appliances available -- there is no television, CD or DVD player. Instead, guests are distracted by a panoramic view of the bay, a seat on the terrace and a sense of tranquillity. (The spa, now open, was still under construction during my visit.)
Service
Shortly after last year's opening, service standards remained one of the greatest challenges at Inishbofin House.
Although actively recruiting young islanders as staff, the area's scant permanent population of around 250 means the resort must also rely on youthful travellers seeking money-earning breaks from their own European trips, which can -- and in my experience did -- lead to lapses in service.
During my stay, however, management spoke of an on-going staff training program that was being put into place. And, in the shorter term, the infectious calm of the island makes it easy to forgive oversights.
Food and drink
Hiring French chef Mickael Jobe may have been one of Inishbofin House's wisest moves -- followed closely by a decision to foster a menu rooted in local produce. Seafood and island-raised lamb are staples, and Chef Jobe has proved that he has a deft touch with each. Other highlights include a fillet of brill simply pan-fried and topped with a lemon butter sauce and desserts such as Frangelico-flavoured brown bread ice cream. Over two weeks of drinking and dining in Ireland, the finest meal I enjoyed was my dinner at Inishbofin.
Things to do
Beyond decompressing from the stresses of mainland life, whether at the soon-to-open spa, in one of the resort's sunrooms or on the waterfront terrace, typical activities on Inishbofin include walking and going to the pub.
More ambitious visitors may wish to try their hand at fishing, rent a bicycle for some island exploration, join a whale-watching trip or go scuba diving.
Bottom Line
Neither pretentiously upscale nor stereotypically quaint and rustic, Inishbofin House adeptly treads the line between creature comforts and rural retreat, creating a destination guaranteed to unwind even the most highly strung urbanite.
Hotel vitals
INISHBOFIN HOUSE
Essentials: Inishbofin Island, Connemara, County Galway, Ireland; 353 (95) 45809; inishbofinhouse.com. The hotel is reachable by car and passenger ferry, bus from Galway or private helicopter service from Galway. Visit the hotel website for details.
Rates and rooms: There are 34 rooms, which run from $145 a person for bed and breakfast to $180 a person for bed, breakfast and dinner. There are also discount and multiday packages in development.
Top draw: Total serenity on a small island off the west coast of Ireland.
Needs work: Service standards have a ways to go.
Special to The Globe and Mail
