CAROL TOLLER
CHICAGO — From Wednesday's Globe and Mail Published on Tuesday, Sep. 26, 2006 2:00AM EDT Last updated on Monday, Apr. 06, 2009 11:42PM EDT
The James has the sleek lines, cool design pieces and funky art that you might expect at a boutique hotel in New York. But the warm, decidedly unpretentious welcome reveals its true Chicago address.
Don't be concerned about the pile of old suitcases stacked in heaps by the reception — it's not a sign that service is slouchy. It's actually the hotel's signature art piece: a project by artist Joel Ross, who dismantled an entire motel room “somewhere between Texas and Chicago” and stuffed the contents — right down to the bed springs — into the collection of valises. You may be tempted to do the same: The rooms feature stylish amenities such as martini shakers, DVD players and waffle-cotton robes. (If you really want to take them home, the concierge will come up with a price.)
A block away from the heart of Chicago's Magnificent Mile, the James makes a perfect base for shoppers. Bloomingdale's is a three-minute walk away, Barney's 15 (less, if that infamous Windy City gale force is blowing at your back). As for Marshall Field's, the now-defunct department store whose name was once synonymous with the city, it has become Macy's, and you've got your choice of two: one on the Mile and the other a quick hop away in the city's downtown Loop district.
Clientele
Aesthetically, the James aims for the Design Within Reach set — people who buy Eames chairs (for sale at the DWR store down the street). But Chicago is a business-trip town, and a sports-fan haven, so guests here are a mixed bag of upper-income travellers.
Locally, it's attracting A-list celebrities: On a recent Saturday night, Macy Gray, Chris Tucker and R. Kelly were in the house for a party hosted by the Miami Heat's Dwyane Wade.
Rooms
Of the hotel's 297 rooms, 106 are suites with living areas that include fully stocked bars with proper-sized bottles, and media rooms with DVD players that screen movies on your wall. If you're staying in a loft suite, you're looking at an embarrassment of entertainment riches — if you don't like the free movies that the concierge has on offer, you can watch one of your two flat-screen TVs. The toiletries are lovely (Kiehl's), and the sleeping area sumptuous (more pillows than I ever thought a bed could accommodate).
Service
Attitude-free and always happy to help, the staff are keen to give guests whatever they need, including reading material borrowed from the shelves of the lobby.
Food and drink
Okay, so it's not the best place for vegetarians. You're in carnivorous territory in Chicago, and the dining room, David Burke's Primehouse, showcases meat: beef, aged beef and even more aged beef, although there's also an assortment of lamb, fish and seafood dishes.
The 43-day-aged rib-eye (bone in) was intensely flavourful and perfectly cooked. And I sincerely regret not trying the chef's showpiece dessert: a cheesecake tree with branches laden with cheesecake lollipops.
(Note to vegetarians: The chef will accommodate your animal-loving ways if you insist on clinging to them — this is, after all, the city that just banned foie gras.)
Things to do
If you're not a shopper, head south on North Michigan (a.k.a. the Mile) and visit the Art Institute of Chicago, the spectacularly urban pleasures of Millennium Park (with its Frank Gehry bandshell and more public art than you'll find in the entire city of Toronto) or grab a train in the Loop and head to Oak Park, where you can tour Frank Lloyd Wright's home and studio — and gawk at all the neighbouring houses that he designed.
THE JAMES HOTEL
Vitals: 55 East Ontario St., Chicago; 312-337-1000; www.jameshotels.com/chicago.
Rates and rooms: Rates start at $279 and go up to $2,230 for a penthouse suite.
Top draws: If you like working out when you travel, you might choose the James for the well-equipped 24-hour workout room, which will soon boast its own personal trainer. And if you're more into aromatherapy massage or sugar scrubs, the in-house spa might cry out to you. Dog lovers will also be happy to know the James is pooch-friendly, offering water and biscuits at the front door and “turn-down truffles.” I liked it for the spacious stylishness of its rooms. The iPod docking station (available in every room) was a bonus.Needs work: The cost of parking can be steep. Valet parking is $45 a night (with unlimited in-out privileges) and the self-park option, while it sounds as if it would be more affordable, isn't — we paid $90 just to leave it untouched in the lot for two days. Considering how easy it is to get around Chicago without a car, you might think of leaving yours at home.
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