News

When many shoppers think of Rome, they think of La Dolce Vita, the 1960 Fellini film that highlighted the city's hedonism and wealth during Europe's bohemian postwar years. Nowadays, however, La Dolce Vita is just as likely to conjure up the popular Food Network TV show. The shops on the famed Via Veneto strip, which once catered to movie stars in fast cars, have gone the way of the baby boomer, now offering comfortable shoes and eyeglasses. But all is not lost: Rather than focusing on the excesses of fashion, Rome has become more of a centre for culinary abandon.

Take Volpetti, a classic food shop that has become a must-see spot on the well-beaten path from the Colosseum to the Vatican (Via Marmorata 47; 39-06-574-2352; fooditaly.com). You're as likely to encounter retired men picking up a simple lunch there as readers of Bon Appétit magazine buying souvenirs. It makes the most of relatively little floor space, with different counters specializing in cheese, cured meat, fresh pasta and olives. Each is staffed by an expert combination of food-snob and culinary tutor. Generous sampling is hard to refuse.

Gusto, an emporium to taste, must be seen to be believed (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9; 39-06-323-6363; http://www.gusto.it). The establishment comprises a restaurant, café, wine bar, casual pizzeria and well-appointed kitchen shop decorated in a casually chic theme. Besides an extensive selection of hard-to-find cookbooks on Italian regional and specialty cuisine, the store sells its own take on sensible and stylish kitchenware. Up a spiral staircase, you'll find a whole other world -- a well-stocked enoteca, (wine shop).

The National Pasta Museum is enough to draw foodies away from the nearby Trevi fountain (where Anouk Aimée took her famous moonlight swim in La Dolce Vita). Its exhaustive overview of the history and fabrication of pasta, which dates back to Etruscan times, is only for diehard cooks. For the novice, the gift shop offers "starter kits" of reasonably priced penne and spaghetti in cute cardboard crates (Piazzetta Scanderberg 1117; 39-06-699-1119). It does not, however, carry one of the city's classic souvenirs: cazzetti, a penis-shaped pasta you can find in almost any corner store in assorted colours.

The Campo de' Fiori is the classic tourist stop, for its photogenic locally grown fruit and flowers fit to brighten the most Spartan of hotel rooms. But the open-air market is no longer a trove of knockoff designer sunglasses and handbags -- it has recently become illegal not only to sell, but to buy fakes, and visitors who do so may be heavily fined. The European Union wants you to pay full price.

Rome doesn't offer the same fashion tour de force as Milan, the country's official style centre. Halfway down Italy's boot, as the seat of democratic chic, one of the city's most popular day trips is to the discount outlet malls outside the city (most hotels even arrange bus tours). That said, its passagio district offers more of a hipster hangout. Via Governo Vecchio draws fashionistas to boutiques such as L'una e l'altra (via del Governo Vecchio 105; 39-06-68804995), which carries European labels such as Dries van Noten. There are also several vintage clothing shops. Back in North America, faded Levi's might look passé, but in Rome the sight of racks of skinny jeans, bomber jackets and 1960s cocktail dresses feels like stepping into the movies. Same goes for the city's one must-have fashion piece: designer shades. For that, take a short taxi ride from the Via Veneto to the swinging style of Mondello Ottica (97/98 Via del Pellegrino; 39-06-6861955; mondelloottica.it). This, at least, is a legitimate throwback to La Dolce Vita days.

The streets around the Spanish Steps are home to too many classic designer labels to count. The classic Roman house of Fendi has its giant headquarters at 419-421 Largo Goldoni (39-06-33-45-01l; http://www.fendi.it). There are also a few standout shops, such as La Perla, the exclusive lingerie house. Even if you can't justify $500 underwear, it's worth going in to witness salespeople who take fitting a bra as seriously as test-driving a Porsche (via Condotti 79; 39-06-994-1934; laperla.com).

On the other hand, Prada (Via Condotti 92/95; 39-06-67-90897; http://www.prada.com), which has several stores in Rome, is ubiquitous to the point of feeling like an Italian Gap. On a recent visit, I saw a teenaged girl from Latin America pleading with a store clerk to let her use her father's credit card. "I'm only in Italy for two days," she said. "I have to have these shoes."

A sales clerk saw her point, but stood firm. After all, every road lead to Rome, and Prada's not going anywhere.