Early riders

From Saturday's Globe and Mail

He's buck naked, save for an oversized sombrero and ski boots. It's minus 8 and snowing lightly. Waist-deep powder, in this particular instance, serves as a smock of sorts — a blessing for skiers who would rather not witness schussing sans ski suit.

On any other day, the ski patrol would kick this nut off the hill for indecent exposure. But on this early-December morning, nudity is tolerated. It's opening day at Whitewater Winter Resort in Nelson, B.C., and as tradition would have it, streaking is apropos: Skiers and boarders who ride the first chair of the winter season must zip back down in their skivvies, with their brethren howling at them from the chairlift.

Paying homage to the snow gods, a sacrifice to Ullr, the Norse ruler of winter, call it what you will — for thousands of diehard skiers and snowboarders across North America, opening day is a more ostentatious occasion than Christmas, and brings with it a host of fun and funky traditions. And this year, more than most, there's a lot happening on the hills from expanded runs and terrain to new lifts and après-ski diversions. So, from Whistler to the Eastern Townships, let the games begin.

Colorado's race for first

The roving, mysterious date of opening day depends on the whims of winter: Owing to its high elevation (topping out at 3,977 metres) and Rocky Mountain climate, Colorado's Arapahoe Basin was the first resort to open in North America this season, firing up its lifts on Oct. 28. (Banff's Norquay had its earliest-ever opening day Nov. 1, making it the first in Canada to spin a lift.)

Year in, year out, “A-Basin” vies with neighbouring Loveland Ski Area for the coveted title. (Loveland has been the first resort to open on the continent 16 of the last 24 years.) As a result, on the eve of opening day, dozens of skiers and riders camp out in the Loveland parking lot — even pitching tents in the lift line — in hopes of nabbing “first chair.”

Few regions get as excited as Colorado when it comes to opening day. The hype surrounding the state's early winter has local kids sleeping in their ski outfits the night before the lifts spin, and adults dressing up in gorilla and Elvis costumes, among other things, to celebrate the inaugural shredding.

At Keystone Resort, where nearly three hectares of new terrain will open this season in the area's powder-choked Independence Bowl, the honorary first chair of 2006 went to U.S. Olympic gold medalist Ted Ligety and fellow Olympians Jimmy Cochran and Tom Rothrock.

Proceedings are a little more mom-and-pop at Beaver Creek's opening day, scheduled for Nov. 22. This year, the resort will host its third annual World's Best Cookie Competition, in which opening day enthusiasts are encouraged to show up with their favourite batch, the winner being determined by popular vote. Good food to ride up on.

Till powder does us part in B.C.

If getting first tracks on Day 1 is as important as a life-long lover, head to B.C.'s Sun Peaks Resort to marry the two. At 8 a.m. this morning, the amenity-rich resort one hour north of Kamloops is offering free wedding ceremonies in the lift-line of the Sunburst chair. Up to three couples — who contacted the resort in advance and have valid marriage licenses — will say their vows and then get a 15-minute jump on other opening-day fanatics. The resort will even cover the cost of a honeymoon package, which includes two nights in a luxury suite at the Delta Sun Peaks Resort, a bottle of champagne and lift tickets for two days. All of a sudden, there's an irrefutable reason to finally tie the knot.

Bonfire at Blackcomb

You won't find nakedness or monkey costumes in Whistler, B.C. — no, at North America's largest resort opening day depends on pagan rituals. At the annual Ullr Party at the base of Blackcomb — which took place on Thursday night — wooden skis go up in flames in hopes that snow will be both plentiful and deep. (It seems to be working: More than 150 centimetres of snow fell over the past week, prompting Whistler to open today and Blackcomb on Thursday.) You can bet your new boards that locals will pull all-nighters for the bragging rights that come with riding the first-ever chair up the new Symphony Express, a high-speed quad that will rocket riders up 509 metres of vertical, accessing some 400 hectares of new terrain in Whistler's Piccolo and Flute bowls.

Early wakeup call in Banff

One of the first Canadian resorts to feel the opening-day buzz this year is Banff's Sunshine Village Ski & Snowboard Resort. Thanks to some of the most fruitful early-season snowfalls in years, the Rocky Mountain resort opened with five lifts and a face full of powder on Nov. 10. With 45 out of 107 runs already open and a healthy 97-centimetre base at press time, Sunshine is well on its way to another great season.

While the unexpected early opening meant that the resort didn't do too much in the way of opening-day festivities, it is offering deals on lodging and skiing through November and December: its Winter Start package features packages as low as $139 a person for two days of skiing and one night's accommodation.

And at another Rocky Mountain gem, a group of locals have battled for first chair since the late 1970s. Skiers at Lake Louise show up at the resort in the pre-dawn hours to snag the coveted title. But for this group, first tracks come with a hefty price tag: Whomever bags first chair has to buy the first round at the bar. The tab this year may have been worth every penny, though, as Lake Louise enjoyed its best opening day ever. The resort opened 70 per cent of its terrain — including the Summit and Back Bowls — on Nov. 11, with riders revelling in nearly a metre of fresh powder and a solid base.

Quebec's quiet expansion

On the other hand, if all the hype surrounding opening day isn't your speed, head east to Quebec's Eastern Townships. At the region's four main ski areas — Ski Bromont, Owl's Head, Mont Sutton and Mont Orford — opening day comes early if the barometer co-operates (two years ago it was Nov. 4). All they need in this neck of the woods, owing to extensive snowmaking, are cool temperatures. Opening day, meanwhile, is more about hitting the terrain park and hoisting a few locally brewed après ales than it is about nudity and bonfires.

But that doesn't mean opening day isn't creating a buzz. Indeed, Bromont has added a new high-speed quad over the summer months, nearly doubling the terrain (to 162 hectares from 97). Skiers and snowboarders now have three new hillsides to explore. At Orford, a new ski-in-ski-out boutique hotel on the shores of Lake Memphremagog has opened. Built by three friends sensing a boom in the region, the Aux 4 Saisons d'Orford offers four suites and 16 luxury rooms, as well as an upscale restaurant.

Special to The Globe and Mail

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