IAIN MacMILLAN
From Wednesday's Globe and Mail Published on Wednesday, Dec. 20, 2006 2:00AM EST Last updated on Tuesday, Apr. 07, 2009 3:41AM EDT
Ullr, the Norse snow god worshipped by skiers and snowboarders, clearly plays favourites.
Dry skies and mild temperatures are prevailing in Eastern North America, as well as across much of Europe and the Western United States. But in the ski country of B.C. and Alberta, from the Rockies to Vancouver Island, it's been a record-setting winter for snow. Christmas hasn't been cancelled for powder-seekers — it's just that Western Canada is hosting it.
While some onlookers may blame global warming for regional snow shortages, experienced skiers know that cyclical weather patterns can bless certain resorts and leave others with enduring greenery. Witness the winter of 2004-2005, which the ski industry of Western Canada would like to forget. That season, winter didn't truly arrive until late March. (When the snow doesn't pile up until after the New Year, many ski areas consider it too late to catch up financially.) Mount Washington on Vancouver Island, for example, opened for just one day in April, 2005 — just so it could have a “last day of the season” party. But today, the resort is 100-per-cent open, with a packed-powder base of 270 centimetres — and more snow in the forecast.
Still, there's no denying that so far, this is a ski season of haves and have nots. The best advice for tracking this finicky weather: Bookmark some resort web cams. A little interactive research will guarantee light, dry powder on a ski getaway.
It's tough to choose from the dozens of snow-blessed resorts across Western Canada, but here are five great options for a ski trip:
Marmot Basin, Jasper, Alta.
Historically, Marmot Basin has always stood in the shadows of its big sisters to the south — Lake Louise and Sunshine, near Banff. But in the past few years, Marmot has quietly added new lifts to its spectacular Rocky Mountain scenery, opened a ton of new terrain, and improved its grooming facilities. Ironically, given the ski area's earliest-ever opening this year, it has also added snowmaking.
Marmot can be a tough sell to the crowd who demand slope-side accommodation. But in the lovely town of Jasper — just 15 minutes away by shuttle bus — families will find affordable motel and hotel rooms, many with indoor pools (the No. 1 accoutrement for urchins). At the other end of the scale, the luxurious amenities, views and history offered by the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge can't be mimicked by mushrooming condos.
For more information, call 1-866-952-3816 or visit www.skimarmot.com.
Fernie, B.C.
Fernie's big alpine bowls, spectacular tree skiing and easy backcountry access create an ideal home base for a road trip including Kicking Horse and the Kootenay resorts of Red Mountain, Whitewater and Kimberley. And if you tire of Fernie's slopes — which is unlikely — cat-skiing is offered by several operations. Fact is, if you get caught up in the historic coal-mining town's fun-loving après-ski scene, you may never leave.
With an average annual snowfall of nine metres, and with the dramatic limestone walls of the Lizard range looming over the resort village and nearby town, many a magazine cover and ski video has been shot at Fernie. And the spotlight should continue to shine, with nearly 3.5 metres of snow so far this season.
For more information, cal l 1-866-633-7643 or visi t skifernie.com.
Sun Peaks, B.C.
The Austrian national ski team signed a 10-year, early-season training camp deal with Sun Peaks for several obvious reasons: excellent facilities and infrastructure; quality snow, both natural (120 centimetres so far) and machine-made; and the influence of one particular resident who knows a thing or two about racing: Olympic and World Cup gold medalist Nancy Green Raine.
Sun Peaks' classy village design, as well as its snowy weather, are all reasons it's so often compared with upscale Colorado resorts. Twelve lifts (including the new Elevation Quad on Tod Mountain) access 881 metres of vertical, the most in the B.C. Interior.
For more information, call 1-800-807-3257 or visit www.sunpeaksresort.com.
Whistler, B.C.
Whistler is massive enough to be all things to all people. Of note, however, are its women's ski and snowboard camps — not to mention superlative spa, shopping, clubbing and dining options.
Fact is, Whistler offers a wider range of places to stay, eat and play than many cities in Canada. One can only hope that the 2010 Olympic snow season starts out as well as this year's — nearly six metres have fallen so far.
For more information, call 1-866-218-9690 o r visit www.whistlerblackcomb.com.
Mica Heli-Guides, B.C.
It was invented in Canada, but historically, skiers and snowboarders filling up seats in helicopters have been almost exclusively Americans and Europeans. In the past few years, however, the growing number of Canadians skiers who have made the decision to spend their money wisely — instead of on a new car, or food, say — have not regretted it.
A prime example of what the dozens of B.C. heli-ski operators offer can be found at Mica Heli-Guides, not far from Revelstoke. Mica features elegant log-house accommodations high in the alpine; private five-passenger helicopters; and this year, an extra helping of deep, dry powder.
For more information, cal l 1-877-837-6191 or visit www.micaheli.com.
Iain MacMillan is editor of Ski Canada magazine
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