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'You make the restaurant smell like feet."

Far Niente executive corporate chef Gordon Mackie says the traditional cheese fondue combination of Emmenthal and Gruyère tends to stinks up the dining room.

That's why he's opted for a more unorthodox truffle-honey, fontina version of the Swiss specialty. The days are numbered for the au gratin offering on his winter menu, but that doesn't mean you can't make an impression at home for your lactose-libidoed guests well into spring.

"What a wonderful smell that is. How it permeates through the room," Mackie says of his creation. For added texture, he mixes hazelnuts into the blend. Sliced pear is offered alongside cubed sourdough for plunging purposes.

The Toronto chef made a number of attempts at spicing up the pot before settling on the fontina blend.

A molten Monterey Jack with jerked chicken for dipping passed the test-drive phase, but Mackie predicted little enthusiasm for Tex-Mex at his sleek Bay Street restaurant.

At home though, he says, the protein-and-cheese mix can score high marks. Grilled shrimp also makes for a good accompaniment. Who knew the fondue pot and barbecue could work side by side?

But your fondue dinner doesn't need to go to pot, Mackie says. He marked this past Valentine's Day with a simple rondelle of goat cheese slung under the broiler for a few minutes.

He encourages at-home entertainers to take the same approach with other rounds.

"There's nothing I like better than taking a baby brie cheese, putting it in the oven for a little bit. You dig into it. It's just one of those natural fondues."

Ingredients aside, for Mackie, the best part of fondue is the fact that it's most often a group affair.

"It evokes conversation. It's just a natural thing to do among couples or friends."

Special to The Globe and Mail

Fondue with Truffle Honey,

Hazelnuts, Sourdough Bread

and Bartlett Pears

From the kitchen of Gord Mackie, executive corporate chef, Far Niente.

½loaf sourdough bread, cubed

3 Bartlett pears, peeled, cored and cubed

¼cup white wine

1 pound fontina cheese, grated

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon truffle honey

2 tablespoons toasted hazelnuts, crushed

Salt to taste

Dice sourdough bread and Bartlett pears and set aside. In a large saucepan (or in the fondue pot), add wine. Bring to a boil.

Mix grated cheese and cornstarch. Put one handful at a time into white wine as it boils. Bring mixture up to a boil. Salt to taste.

Transfer to fondue pot if appropriate; move fondue pot to fondue stand.

Add one tablespoon of truffle honey and the crushed toasted hazelnuts to the top of the mixture.

Serve with accompaniments. Serves 4.