From Marrakesh to Monte Carlo, anywhere the French are involved you can expect superior style -- and prices. But the relative remoteness of French Polynesia's lush Society Islands has fostered a decelerated development. That means elegant excursions to Moorea, Bora Bora and Huahine are accessible for every pocketbook.
Families will want to check out Moorea (the sister isle of bustling Tahiti), outlying Bora Bora offers pure tropical chic splashed with a selection of posh hotels, and beguiling Huahine is island charm personified, rife with inexpensive accommodation.
Moreover, these destinations are all encircled by countless deserted postcard-perfect motus (or islands) easily accessible by boat. Play castaway, collect seashells, snorkel in the turquoise water, count shooting stars -- this is tropical paradise as you've always imagined it.
HIGH-END
HOTEL BORA BORA, BORA BORA
Aman resorts have a sterling reputation for panache as well as straight posh. In fact, the chain's unique flair has given rise to what Vanity Fair recently identified as a modern travel tribe all its own: the "Amanjunkie."
The French Polynesian outlet won't disappoint such aficionados. The first hotel to make its debut on the area's trendiest island, the Bora Bora opened its doors in 1961 and retains all the charm of the labour of love it clearly was. No prefab luxe here, the atmosphere is akin to staying at a wealthy aunt's beach house.
With 54 bungalows and fares (larger villas) that vary in style and size, including the traditional over-water bungalows, the real score here is one of the beach houses scattered along the island's very best white sand beach. Outfitted in chic bamboo and black lacquer Bahamian Deco pieces and claw foot tubs, it's no surprise that Sharon Stone makes this her Bora Bora address.
The hotel also serves the best cuisine on the island, its tasty crab risotto with coconut milk offset by a bottle from an excellent, reasonably priced wine list. Otherwise, it's a five-minute walk up the beach to the tiny town of Mitira, where snack shacks offer inexpensive and delicious poisson cru and cold, local Hunani beers.
MID-RANGE
INTERCONTINENTAL, MOOREA
Tahiti is French Polynesia's main hub and the island of Moorea, a 20-minute ferry off its coast, is where locals keep holiday homes. A quick hop, 10 minutes by air, it's also convenient to families making the flight from North America. More developed than the outlying islands, Moorea's seaside villages -- Maharepa, Paopao, Haapiti, Afareaitu and Vaiare -- boast an incongruous number of kid-friendly Italian restaurants, shops and activities ranging from frolicking with Flipper to exploring area ruins.
The place to stay? The family-friendly Intercontinental offers 94 bungalows, half of them over water, along with the main hotel's 49-rooms. Decor is modern (no garish florals here) and on-site diversions include a turtle sanctuary and the Moorea Dolphin Center. The hotel also houses one of only two dive centres in French Polynesia to earn a five-star PADI rating.
It hosts the Hélène spa as well. Run by a Parisian expat, and rated among the world's best by Marie-Claire and Elle, it serves up indigenous beauty rituals in a thatched bungalow retreat set among the hotel's flowering gardens. Frangipani, hibiscus, jasmine and bougainvillea are picked daily for fragrant baths, tropical fruits crushed for every treatment.
SHOESTRING
PENSION MAUARII, HUAHINE
Known as the "island of pregnant women" for its arced mountain landscape, Huahine was the only matriarchy of the eight sovereign tribes that once ruled these islands. Now it's an untrammelled paradise that attracts travellers, not tourists. The perfect place to relax with a friend and a pile of good books.
At the family-run Pension Mauarii, a series of guest houses offer a variety of options from two-bedroom seaside villas and garden bungalows that sleep up to six to one-room ocean-side cottages with outdoor showers. For an additional $20 a day, a cot can be added for kids under 12.
In the island's small town, Fare (Polynesian for home), you'll find a grocery store, a couple of café/bars and a handful of shops along its succinct seaside strip -- all with prices far less than you'll find on the other islands.
Have lunch at the thatched roulettes (food carts) by the port, then drop by Exotica for pretty pareos, shell-embellished flip-flops, and lovely boho jewellery. Cap the day with sunset cocktails at the charming beachfront bar where a smattering of Aussie and Kiwi surfers and yacht crews enjoy a night off, drinking "happy Heinekens."
Did I mention that the French navy pulled into town while I was there? Divine.
Hotel vitals
HOTEL BORA BORA
Essentials: Point eRaititi, B.P. 1 Nunue, Bora Bora; http://www.amanresorts.com; 1-800-477-7462.
Rates and rooms: 54 bungalows, with double rooms starting at $815 a night.
Top draw: The island's best beach and chicest bungalows, all walking distance from town.
Needs work: Could use a spa and gym -- both of which are being added in 2006.
INTERCONTINENTAL RESORT AND SPA MOOREA
Essentials: Papetoai, Moorea; 689-55-1919; moorea.interconti.com.
Rates and rooms: The 94 bungalows and 44 rooms start at $365 for doubles.
Top Draw: French Polynesia's best spa -- frangipani, hibiscus, jasmine and bougainvillea are picked daily for baths.
Needs work: The service is sweet, but slow.
PENSION MAUARII
Essentials: PK 17, Huahine; 689-68-8649; http://www.mauarii.com.
Rates and rooms: Doubles from $230 a night, including breakfast.
Top draw: Tasteful low cost lodging on idyllic island.
Needs work: Some rooms share bathrooms; check when you book.
